Rovacom
From LandyWiki
Without Blackbox Solutions no section on ECU Control and Diagnostics for the Private Owner of a 38A would be possible.
Thankyou.
Contents |
[edit] Section Introduction.
The original contribution was by Davidss, 21:26, 13 Nov 2006 (GMT).
Announcement - June 2007.
In June 2007 the Rovacom Lite and the Rovercom Pro were discontinued.
The replacement products are Faultmate MV (Multi-Vehicle) and Faultmate SV (Single Vehicle).
The software modules for the 38A have not changed, apart from the normal development process.
A lot of advice in this section is about choosing modules, interacting with the Blackbox Solutions Forum, the need for the purchaser to have or develop their own PC and car technical knowledge. This is still relevant advice, even if the hardware has changed. The advice re the hardware is left in situ, as the Lite and Pro versions will continue to be available on the secondhand market.
Blackbox Solutions have stated they are continuing to provide support for the Lite and the Pro, as evidenced by the fact they have designed the Faultmates to use the same software modules.
If you immediately want to see what the new hardware is, and what it can do for you, the Blackbox Solutions Product list is here.
If you do not yet own one of the Rovacom range of products, then please feel free to look around, and see what information other people are getting.
If you want a 'live' discussion on the information the Rovacom makes available, what it means, or other aspects of private use, the writer recommends you join him and other Rovacom Owners on the Mailing List at Rangie.com
A Rovacomlite was bought in early 2004. A lot of the information on these pages is based on the following years of RCL ownership, the attendant advantage of access to the 'closed to owners' combined RovacomLite + RovacomPro (RCL + RCP) Technical Support forum run by Blackbox Solutions, and casual contributions from other Rovacom users, via other forums.
The ethos from Blackbox Solutions is that the purchaser (YOU) supplies the technical knowledge about BOTH the Car and the PC. Blackbox expertise lies in breaking through the security built into each ECU. If this was easy there would be as many Rovacom-like products around as there are OBD2 Scan Code readers.
Blackbox supply you the means of accessing, viewing, controlling, and changing, the settings within the ECUs.
Note that Blackbox do NOT provide modification facilities that the original ECU supplier (say Bosch) didn't write in the first place. Blackbox will, if possible, provide access to options which the Car manufacturer, or ECU supplier, may have barred, for whatever reason, via the Testbook / T4 system.
As far as the electronic interface with the car ECUs are concerned, both RovacomLite and RovacomPro can be considered identical. The owner downloads the same 'free' software packages when updates are made available. The Lite / Pro difference is how the visual interface is presented, how the PC connects to the Vehicle Server, and the Vehicle Server (VS) itself.
The Lite uses your PC to present the visual interface. It can be a laptop, or a desktop, or both. Connection from PC to the VS is via a Serial port (or USB simulation of a Serial port).
The Pro package includes a Tablet PC to present the visual interface, with a standard Tablet Windows OS installed. Connection to the VS is via a Wireless link, or USB cable.
For both Lite and Pro, the application loaded on your PC to control the Vehicle Server, and to access the car under test, is called Vehicle Explorer.
Top of this section: Introduction.
[edit] Rovacom Lite
Well, like many P38A owners who are interested in the complexity of the vehicle, I was intrigued to see the announcement of the Rovacom Lite system. Affordable diagnostics for the enthusiast? Too good to be true? Has to be a "nobbled" system? Read on to find out....
[edit] The System
The Rovacom lite consists of 4 components, all of which have to be purchased separately.
- A Vehicle Server
- A Vehicle Communications Interface
- One or more interface leads for different vehicles/systems
- One or more software modules. For the P38A there are seven: Engine, Autobox, BeCM, HeVAC, ABS, SRS, and EAS. For simpler vehicles then there are fewer systems.
A system will cost from £600 for a single system, incrementing by between £70 and £180 to add more modules to cover other systems or other vehicles. This means that for all systems in a single P38A variant you are looking at just over £1,000 - more if you don't have a laptop to run it oÂn.
The software modules are coded to run oÂnly oÂn YOUR vehicle server, so there is pretty good control over the licensing. Registering lots of modules is fairly time consuming, but it's a oÂne-time chore, so is hardly a major issue.
[edit] What can it do?
The functionality of the system can be broadly categorized into several areas:
- Read Fault codes from all system components and clear fault codes and their indicator lights.
- Read sensor values to confirm their operation (e.g., coolant temperature).
- Update vehicle communications settings such as enabling oÂne-touch operation for the rear windows or recalibrating EAS.
- Switch various components (lights, EAS valves, etc) oÂn and off to check their operation.
- A comprehensive list would be beyond the scope of this article, but from what I've been reading in the LR workshop manuals, and learned from other sources including people with access to testbook, there isn't much you can't ask for.
[edit] What support is there?
The primary source of support is the owners-only web forum where owners can exchange comments with the manufacturers and other owners. This is still very new at the moment, but so far Rovacom have been very responsive (I got a patch to a minor issue the same day I reported the problem!!)
[edit] Ease of use
There are a few rough edges in the system where it's not intuitively obvious which button to click (e.g., to get from help back to the main window you have to click the "X" icon to close the help application). These glitches aside, anyone familiar with a PC and the terminology applicable to the vehicle should get oÂn well with it.
[edit] Conclusions
Overall, it's a powerful and flexible system that lets you do pretty much anything a LR dealer can do in terms of accessing diagnostic information oÂn any Land Rover. At upwards of£ 600, purchasing a Rovacom Lite will be a major expense for most people. I see the purchasers falling into oÂne of three groups:
- Garages who don't see enough diagnostic work to invest in a "full" Rovacom or testbook, which is more like £10,000.
- Owners who live a long way from a LR dealer. For Americans a round trip of over 200 miles to the nearest dealer is not unknown.
- Enthusiasts like myself who will buy the system as a vehicle accessory, much like adding a winch or a stereo upgrade.
If you fall into oÂne of these categories, then it's a worthwhile investment.
See Also #What Rovacom Does.
Top of this section: #Rovacom Lite
[edit] What to Buy?
The original contribution was by Davidss, 21:26, 13 Nov 2006 (GMT).
Some people will justify the spend on this particular tool by saying they can use it on a range of vehicles, both their own and those of mates.
It isn't quite that simple.
While all the hardware is common across all 38As, some of the software modules are not, and buying the software modules is where the purchase price begins to mount up. This page enables you to set out the costs.
If at any point you need more product detail, visit a Dealer Online Shop, like Rover Renovations or Blackbox Solutions shop. The Blackbox shop can take some time to load, possibly because of the images included.
The assumption made here is that you are buying everything from Blackbox Solutions, so that you have the benefit of dealing with only one supplier if a problem should occur. You may identify parts that you can obtain locally, but do recognise that it will be your responsibility to decide which piece of kit is faulty, if difficulties appear either immediately, or at any time during your ownership.
Returning a Server to Cyprus is costly. Life can seem a little frustrating when it's a poor quality or incorrect cable you bought locally that's causing the problems. (And Yes, it's even more frustrating if you happen to find a fault on kit supplied by Blackbox, but everyone can't be a winner:-)
Top of this section: #What to Buy?
[edit] Your first order.
START A LIST of 4 columns : Item Number, Description, Price, and Which Car.
[edit] Hardware.
The minimum Hardware kit list is:-
- The (LD001) cable from the Car Data OBD2 Connector to the VCI,
- The (HW021) Vehicle Communications Interface itself,
- The (HW001) Vehicle Server (VS),
- The (AC003) Null Modem cable.
You ALWAYS need ALL of those items.
These are the Rovacom Lite versions. The cable from the Car Data OBD2 Connector to the VCI and the Vehicle Communications Interface (VCI) itself are also available as Rovacom Pro versions. The electrical functionality is the same, but better terminations are employed.
The cable has a metal plug, with screws, enabling it to be securely fixed to the VCI, which has the neccessary threaded sockets to accept the screws.
For the moderate additional cost, you might consider the upgrade to be worthwhile. Add them to your list, go through the pricing exercise, then decide.
- The (LD012) Pro Heavy Duty version of the cable from the Car Data OBD2 Connector to the VCI,
- The (HW002) Pro Heavy Duty version of the Vehicle Communications Interface.
The Vehicle Server is standard, upgrading to the wireless connected version involves buying the associated tablet PC as well, so cannot be considered 'Basic'.
The Null Modem lead has no variants.
- Also Essential (perhaps).
If your PC does NOT have a Serial / RS232 port, instead relying on USB ports, you will need a (AC002) USB to Serial Converter (USB to RS 232). Available both from Blackbox and locally, for the novice PC user this is probably best bought from Blackbox.
Note that you STILL need the Null Modem cable to go between the VS and the Serial connection created by the converter.
- To review those items.
LD001 is about 24" (600mm) long, enough to put the VCI on the floor of the footwell, well towards the front of the seat.
Two design features make this a specialist cable.
The OBD2 plug, and the thick stranded cores within the cable.
The cable is plugged into the VCI, the VCI plugged into the VS, and the Null Modem Cable plugged into the VS and the PC Serial Port.
It is the Null Modem cable that can be 'as long as you like' (within reason) giving you the length and flexibility to have the laptop PC positioned near the engine bay. This gives the facility, for example, to hear solenoid valves operate as you use the EAS module. The Null Modem lead also allows you to use a trolley mounted Desktop PC near the car, if that is what you want.
- Limitations.
With the minimalist set up, the VS can only obtain power from the OBD2 socket, so that both the initial installation and any software updates can only take place at the car. Any full or partial loss of power will be disastrous during these processes.
Although you don't need to be on-line, it's perhaps handy to be able to check information during the initial installation. Wireless communications means that you needn't be off-line while in the car, but on the assumption that the initial and any subsequent software installation will take place in the house, you need 'local' power for the VS, which has to be connected during these times.
- Power options.
If you already have a typical auxiliary starter battery pack (not supplied by Blackbox), you could buy a cigar lighter power lead, and use that with your Battery Pack. The alternative is a mains driven power supply for the VS.
Both the (LD006) Cigar Lighter lead and the (AC001) Mains driven Power supply can be bought from Blackbox, but some people will feel they either have a suitable item already, or can buy one locally.
One essential point to remember is that the VS power socket is 5.5 x 2.1 mm (External x Internal diameters). It's an easy mistake to make to get a 5.5 x 2.5 plug, which has the nasty habit of working sometimes, but not all the time.
Thinking of using the cigar lighter power lead in the car is a little bizarre in the 38A, although no doubt applicable with other cars. The OBD2 socket is live all the time, while the cigar lighter socket is only live with the Ignition Key in the Accessory position, increasing even further the power drain on the car battery.
However, you could also buy the (LD007) Battery Clip power lead which terminates in a Cigar Lighter socket. Clipping this to the battery gives a permanently live socket for the cigar lead. The combination of these leads gives you so many points of possible connection failure that it doesn't bear thinking about, for too long.
Remember that any full or partial loss of power will be disastrous during the initial installation and software update processes.
- Optional Initial purchases.
As well as the power options, there is an LD011 VCI extension lead. Built of the same thick stranded cable as the LD001 lead, this 5 feet long (1500mm) cable can either plug into the LD001 cable and the VCI, or can plug between the VCI and the VS (leaving the VCI attached to the LD001 cable). The heavyweight construction of this cable means that it's flexibility is limited, and that it's easy to create a situation where the cable pulls on the mechanically unsecured connectors at either end. This may cause intermittent electrical connection problems. You need to design your own remedy to this potential fault situation.
- Conclusion.
If you buy all the hardware options mentioned you have a degree of flexibility in how you connect the hardware, both in the car and in the house. Carriage from Cyprus is expensive, relative to the cost of any individual item, so it's better to buy ALL the items you are going to buy from Blackbox at the same time. If you are confident enough to plan on buying some items locally, then when you buy those is up to you.
You might like to try and look into the future, and predict, say, that your next laptop PC won't have a serial port, so you will need a USB to Serial converter. Or that this purchase is the first step in a future that will see you repairing and reprogramming BECMs. In which case you might want the Direct CPU lead 'now' (LD010).
The same applies to any specific leads you may require to deal with non-OBD2 compliant vehicles, like Classic Range Rovers, and others.
See Also
Top of this section:#What to Buy?
[edit] Software.
The main application, used on your PC, is called Vehicle Explorer, and comes as part of the Vehicle Server.
For the rest, you buy the modules that apply to the element of the car you want to investigate immediately.
Each module stands on it's own, so for example, you don't have to buy the BECM module before buying the Suspension module.
- What have you got?
Initially you may not realise there are variations on some of the items fitted to your car, and that the choice of module will depend on which of those variations you have. It's better to make that discovery before placing an order, so you can check the car in plenty of time. You may have to walk away from the PC, and actually look at the car !!
CONTINUE YOUR LIST !!!
You will find it useful to know the VIN of your car, as a lot of changes were made effective from the start of the '99 model year, when all VINs ended XA +6 digits,
For the 4.0 - XA 410484
For the 4.6 - XA 410483
For the Diesel - XA 410482
For NAS cars - XA 404796
Side Airbags and Seat Belt pretensioners, for the front seats, were included as part of the '99MY revisions, so another way to date your car is to look for the SRS tag sewn into the seam of the back rest, nearest the side of the car.
- Simple ones - there are no alternatives.
Body Control / BECM (SM022) - Suspension / EAS (SM026) - Climate Control / HEVAC (SM027)
- The easy ones.
Engine
If Petrol, is it a Lucas Gems system (SM001), or a Bosch Motronic system (SM009)?
The Lucas Gems engines have big rectangular cast aluminium box on top of the engine.
The Bosch Motronic engines have an aluminium 'bunch of bananas' on top of the engine.
If Diesel, whether the inlet manifold is aluminium, or black plastic, it's a Bosch EDC (SM007).
- Slightly more difficult.
ABS - Anti-lock braking system, sometimes including Traction Control, which can be either 2 wheel (rear axle only), or 4 wheel.
WABCO is the system manufacturer (Westinghouse Automotive Brake COmpany, I think).
Wabco Type C (SM021) fitted until the type D took over.
Wabco type D (SM018) from '99 Model Year on, so check the VIN or look for the SRS tag sewn into the seam of the back rest, nearest the side of the car to date the car as '99 or later Model Year.
- Automatic Gearbox
Pre '99 or Post '99 (Model year)?
Pre 99, Petrol or Diesel - SM028.
Post '99, Diesel - still SM028.
Post '99, Petrol - SM029.
- Cruise Control
Diesel or Petrol?
Pre or Post '99?
In all Diesels, cruise control is handled by the engine ECU, therefore no SEPARATE module is required.
Pre '99 Petrol, there is no Cruise Control ECU, therefore no Module is required.
Post '99 Petrol, Hella CC (SM039), so check the VIN or look for the SRS tag sewn into the seam of the back rest, nearest the side of the car to date the car as '99 or later Model Year.
- The most difficult.
SRS - Supplementary Restraint System, or Airbags to most people
MPS (Multi point system) or SPS (Single point system)?
If SPS, Type 1 or Type 2?
MPS (SM011) is the early system, fitted until the '96 Model year. Look for a yellow sensor box behind each headlight. The LH one is most obvious. If there is one, it's mate will be hidden by the battery cover.
No yellow box means you have the later SPS, the single sensor is hidden, so you don't have to look for it.
SPS Type 1 (SM012) is from '96MY to end of '98MY (Model years, not Calendar years).
SPS Type 2 (SM013) is from '99MY to the end of production.
This supports Side Air Bags, and Seat Belt Pretensioners, so look for the SRS tag sewn into the seam of the back rest, nearest the side of the car.
- Full Price list gives access to all the modules, clicking the relevant 'More Information' button gives you (in a new window) the detail to ensure you are pricing the correct module.
Top of this section:#What to Buy?
[edit] Shared Purchasing.
Don't buy Software for your the car of your mate!!
Visit the Software section to set out an initial list of software modules for your 38A.
Visit a shop site and Total the price.
Secondly draw up a parallel list of all the modules that are nice to have, for your mates vehicles.
Total the price of these.
Now you may be this generous to your mates. When they have an engine problem, you would naturally hand them this cash to help them out. Not everyone can afford to be this generous.
Whether you give them the opportunity to pay for these modules themselves, and place them on your VS, or whether you split the cost 50/50, and place them on your VS, is up to you. Remember there is only one VS, it's yours, and the modules stay with the VS, for always.
- Think on, 1.
While you are researching what facilities RCL opens up on a car, what adjustments you can make, what the current settings are, the fact that the VS is 20 miles away is no inconvenience. When you are trying to fix a problem, and the engine won't start, is your mate (and his family) the sort that will drop their plans and dash that 20 miles? Sharing a VS can cause as many problems as it solves. Ensure all parties (and partners) are aware of the sharing terms before you commit to the arrangement.
- Think on, 2.
You might think that your mate can pay 50% of a module, install it on your VS, using it as a trial, with a view to buying his own VS later, when the module can be transferred to his VS.
You'd be WRONG.
At this point remember that Blackbox are experts in the field of (breaking other peoples) security software, so their own is very secure.
When purchased, the software module access code is tied to a particular VS, it cannot be shared, used twice, or transferred. So if your mate pays 50% of a module cost he is giving you that money. Make sure this is understood by your mates, and any relevant partners, who are committing to any '% payment' scheme. Sure, you will help him as much as you are able, but there are limits, despite the access arrangements implicit in him giving you that money.
Whoever owns the Server owns the Module.
- Think on, 3.
OK, neither you or your mate is going to make a speculative purchase of software modules in anticipation of a problem. Instead you agree payment terms that if he has a problem, you will buy the necessary module, install it, and work on his car. He has access to alternative travel arrangements while his vehicle is out of commission. It seems this shouldn't be long, as you can pay online for the module access code, and the actual software is already on your PC as part of the installation package, so there is no postage delay, or cost.
It isn't quite that simple. See Dealing with Cyprus.
Top of this section: #What to Buy?
[edit] Adding Modules.
The original contribution was by Davidss, 21:26, 13 Nov 2006 (GMT).
[edit] Which Module?
To work out what software is needed for a particular Model or Car, you need to know what options are fitted to that Model. If you aren't certain, you can work out the options you have to select from (Alternative SRS systems, for example), by following #What have you got?.
If you already own a Rovacom System, and know what is fitted to your car, you can open Vehicle Explorer, and in the Left Hand Menu, select 'R Rover P38', and keep working down the menu selecting the different options. Say you select 'Safety Restraint', then '96-99'. This will automatically give you 'TRW SPS Type 1'.
The next steps are the same, whatever sub-system you navigate to.
In the same LH menu, click 'Information', then 'Help' and by scrolling down a page or two you can see the Module is number SM012, and what the Module does. Use the number in the Online Shop facility. To confirm before buying, you can select "MORE INFORMATION" in the online shop.
- Caution.
Double check, or ask advice from your Rovacom Dealer.
It is YOUR responsibility to select the correct Software Modules. If you order the wrong one, tough. Remember, a module authorisation cannot be exchanged or transferred. Do NOT expect a refund if you chose incorrectly.
Top of this section: #What to Buy?
[edit] When to buy.
OK, you aren't going to make a speculative purchase of software modules in anticipation of a problem. Instead you will buy the necessary module, and install it when you need it. It seems this shouldn't take long, as you can pay online for the module access code, and the actual software is already on your PC as part of the installation package, so there are no postage delays, or shipping cost.
It isn't quite that simple. See #Authorisation request Timescales.
Top of this section: #What to Buy?
[edit] Dealing with Cyprus.
The original contribution was by Davidss, 21:26, 13 Nov 2006 (GMT).
[edit] Authorisation request Timescales.
As part of the Security arrangements, the access code request for an additional module has to be validated by a human. It is not automatic, like a password reminder or replacement. Humans don't normally work weekends, at least, the Blackbox Admin Humans don't. Neither do they normally work on Bank Holidays. Remember, if you are working on your car, you aren't at work either.
- Trivial Pursuit style questions.
Which EU country has the most Bank Holidays, and how many? Clue, Where is Blackbox Solutions based?
Answers, Cyprus, and 16.
How many Bank Holidays does the UK have?
Answer, 8.
There is a variance of a day, depending on your information source.
When will your mate, or YOU, really REALLY need that extra module authorising?
Answer, a CYPRUS Bank Holiday weekend. (If Murphy's Law applies).
Conclusion. Get it into your head that you can only get authorisation applications approved within 24 hours if you apply between Tuesday and Thursday. Knowing this, and telling your mates this, means the decision to spend money can be made at an appropriate time, or you realise you will have to proceed without your RCL being completely set up for the circumstances.
Top of this section: #Dealing with Cyprus.
[edit] Cheaper Transport costs.
If you have to send any components for repair to Blackbox at Cyprus the transport will be more expensive than you think.
Transport costs are OUTSIDE any Guarantee terms.
Blackbox recommend you use DHL, remember that if anything goes wrong, and you haven't followed Blackbox recommendations, their support commitment will not be as strong.
DHL ONLY offer a 2 day Express service. There isn't a slower & cheaper option. From the UK this can cost over 60 Pounds.
Two options:
- One. Use Interparcel to see if their offering to Cyprus uses DHL, if it does (and it used to), it will cost you 33% less.
- Two. Ask Blackbox to pay, and for them to bill you the amount, with the aim of benefiting from their 'frequent user' discount. Treat this as a favour to you, not a 'right' you can demand.
This is a bit of a gamble for you, as Blackbox cannot guarantee what DHL will charge for the collection and transit TO Cyprus, but Blackbox will 'probably' get a discount due to their Business Account status with DHL.
[edit] Avoiding the Credit Card surcharge.
When Blackbox bill you, they will add on the 2.5% surcharge the Credit Card company charge. Blackbox do give you the option to save the surcharge (and the VAT charged on it) by allowing you to do a Direct Account Transfer. On the Invoice to you they supply their account details that enable you to do this. If you have an online Bank Account it makes this method easy.
Top of this section: #Dealing with Cyprus.
[edit] Realistic Repair Timescales.
If, after discussion, the decision is made that your Rovacom has to go back to Cyprus for repair, expect to be without it for a further 3 WEEKS. This includes weekends, but not any of those 16 Bank Holidays.
An example, starting from when the Returns Authorisation (RMA) email from Blackbox arrives.
From you booking transport, to collection, 1 day.
UK collection point, to Blackbox, 3 days.
Arrival at Blackbox, to repair completion (you receive the email advising you of the cost), 4 days.
Banking delay, from you authorising the transfer, to Blackbox seeing it in their account, 6 days.
Blackbox to UK destination, 5 days.
Total 19 days. You can track it via DHL, but it doesn't move any quicker.
A SINGLE example, your experience may differ!!
Top of this section: #Dealing with Cyprus.
[edit] Technical Knowledge.
The original contribution was by Davidss, 21:26, 13 Nov 2006 (GMT).
To make best use of the Rovacom some technical knowledge is needed. A User does not have to have this before buying a Rovacom, but if they can recognise what is required, and in what areas more knowledge is beneficial, the experience of using Rovacom will be both more enjoyable and give less frustration. Inevitably, sometimes the shortfall in knowledge isn't recognised until some experience has been gained.
The areas of Technical Knowledge can be identified under four headings:
- ECU access - RCL and PC interaction - PC Management - Vehicle Systems.
[edit] ECU access.
The ability to negotiate any security built into any ECU, and extract whatever data and functionality is present, then present that to the User.
Mainly this is the preserve of Blackbox personnel, although Users should become aware of the functionality built into Vehicle Explorer, so that they can ensure the presentation of ECU information is optimised to the users advantage.
Top of this section: #Technical Knowledge.
[edit] RCL and PC interaction.
An understanding of how the Rovacomlite Server and Communications Interface interact both with each other, and with the users PC.
This information has to come from Blackbox people, to be shared with the Users. In the main, this information is presented via occasional postings from Colin Whittall in the Owner Only Support Forum. Once a purchaser has access to the Forum, it's worth seeking out Colin's posts and perhaps saving the essential highlights on the Users PC, as a mini 'specialist Help' section. Just be aware of the date of the posting. Sometimes the information in the post has been overtaken by subsequent Product development. Sometimes similar information is posted by the other support staff, often as a comment while answering a specific query.
It is worth the User keeping up to date with the daily posts in the Forum to ensure they pick up these items. The daily check is much easier than later searching every post in the event of a problem.
Just understanding when a slight pause is called for, before clicking that mouse button again, is a great aid to a successful User experience. Similarly, understanding why a 'failure' appears intermittent, when actually a programmed reset is taking place, also avoids frustration.
Top of this section: #Technical Knowledge.
[edit] PC Management.
Knowledge of the PC terms and settings that are essential to ensuring the PC is set up to correctly interact with the Rovacomlite.
It is essential the User has a basic understanding of how to manage a PC.
Blackbox do not provide training in this area, so it is the responsibility of the User to ensure they have sufficient knowledge, or a support community available, in the event of an apparent problem. Having this knowledge often ensures the User can more easily identify whether a problem is likely to be with the PC, or with the Rovacom Hardware / Software.
Beware jumping to conclusions.
'A basic understanding' can mean different things to different people; a fact which only becomes apparent when something goes 'wrong'.
Just to establish the bare bones, here is some knowledge you should have: if you can't answer the questions clearly, consult your own 'support community' to give yourself the necessary awareness.
- Has your PC got a Firewall installed?
- Do you know how to switch it off, if required, when loading software?
- Does your PC have an active Virus protection package?
- Is it up to date?
- How do you update it?
- How do you switch it off, if required, when loading software?
- Do you appreciate there is a difference between Software and Firmware (Hardware is another matter), and that both Soft and Firm - ware updates will require separate actions?
- Does your PC run any other software that might use the Serial port? (The RS232 port is the same thing)
- How can you check what the Serial port is assigned to?
- How can you check what the port settings are?
- Can you resolve a Com Port conflict?
- Do you appreciate there is a difference between a Serial Lead, and a Null Modem lead?
- How can you confirm you have the correct one installed?
- Do you know what version of Windows is installed?
- Do you know what version of Internet Explorer is installed?
- Where can it be easily found if an upgrade or re-install is required?
- If you have a USB to Serial converter, do you know where to go to ensure you have the latest driver?
- If you have a converter, do you know you ALSO need a Null Modem cable, connected in series with the converter lead?
- If you change your USB / Serial converter lead to a different USB outlet, do you know how to check and reset the converter settings to account for this change?
- If asked to put PC date and currency settings to UK requirements, do you know how to check and change these?
- Can you (Do you) back up your data?
These are the basics to have under your belt at the start. Having to build on them later is very much down to the individuality of your PC, and what programmes you run on it.
Top of this section: #Technical Knowledge.
[edit] Vehicle Systems.
Knowledge of the car sub-system that is under test, such that the information found and presented by the Rovacom can be analysed, understood, and the correct conclusion drawn.
This down to the User and their own Support Community. The Blackbox Forum can be included in this, as there are some specialists amongst the other Users. Ensure you have the basics, of the correct Workshop and Electrical manuals.
As well as personal friends, start looking at Forum and Mailing list postings, and judge which sites show a depth of knowledge, and which are just chatty with smart alec responses. A high post count doesn't mean a useful poster.
Top of this section: #Technical Knowledge.
[edit] Support and Advice.
The original contribution was by Davidss, 21:26, 13 Nov 2006 (GMT).
[edit] Pre-Purchase.
While doing pre-purchase research, using the Rovacomlite site is the obvious choice, but as well as this RangieWiki site, you can use any Land Rover based Web Forum or Mailing List you like, to Search for what questions have been asked, and what comments made. This Contributor hasn't found a Web Forum that is especially good, and some have posters who are positively anti the 38A, so no good for RCL either. This Contributor uses the Rangie.com Mailing List.
Ask questions of any Dealer you might think of buying from, as this helps you find a Dealer who is interested in the product, not just shifting boxes, of which RCL is one in ten thousand.
Speaking to the Dealer beforehand gives you a useful indication of how knowledgeable they are, and how helpful they are. It can be very useful buying from a Dealer in a similar Time Zone to yourself.
Top of this section: #Support and Advice.
[edit] Post Purchase.
[edit] Help Yourself.
Rovacom Support begins with the Help built into the system.
Do NOT ignore the Help information, especially that linked from the LH menu behind the Information button, once you are into a specific module. You will have wasted your money if you don't use these Help pages.
The Help information within the Vehicle Explorer application is available without connection to the vehicle or even the Vehicle Server, so there can be advantages in having the Vehicle Explorer application installed on your garage workshop PC, and your domestic PC, and even your business PC, if you have one. It just depends where you might be when you want to do some research. Multiple installations of the software is not breaking the rules. You need the VS and VCI to use the software on a car, and you've only bought one set of those, presumably.
Top of this section: #Support and Advice.
[edit] External Sources.
Establish who your post purchase support community is likely to be.
See the Technical Knowledge section to identify what support is appropriate for you.
The people for RCL support may be different to the people for Vehicle support, although there will be some overlap.
Chosen wisely, your RCL Dealer becomes your first line RCL support.
You can buy RCL support outside Blackbox, mainly targeted at trade users, this contributor no experience of these services.
See Diagnostic Solutions or James French Service (Internet Explorer only).
1st June 2007 - Due to ill health, Diagnostic Solutions UK has temporarily suspended its activities.
Diagnostic Solutions also sell Rovacom equipment, so if you are seriously looking for a supplying Dealer with guaranteed post sales support, this might be for you, for the first year at least. RCL support, singleton user, is £250.00 (November 2006).
If you need advice on finding or curing a fault on the car, where you have used your RCL to collect Fault Codes or collect Data, then the Owners Only Support Forum is useful, with input possible both from the Blackbox staff, and from other users.
In seeking resolution of a car fault, you can also ask on any other Forum or Mailing List you belong to, although I'd particularly recommend the Range Rover Knowledge Base Mailing List.
If you need advice on the computer you are using with the RCL, then you need to have found that support yourself. See PC Management for guidance. You may strike lucky on a Land Rover Forum or List, or you might need somewhere with more specialist computing knowledge.
Top of this section: #Support and Advice.
[edit] Owners Forum.
The official Technical Support process is the web forum run by Blackbox Solutions. This is certainly the recommended place to go if you think you are having problems with the Hardware or Software, because of the direct support from the manufacturer. As a matter of policy, Blackbox do not respond positively to direct phone calls or direct e-mails that ask for Technical Support. You should learn to make the best use of the Forum, by visiting regularly and using the 'View New Posts > Since Your Last Visit' option, and by setting up the forum to advise you by email of new topics posted. Do thisfor the Miscellaneous and VE sections, and also each section relating to the hardware and software you have bought.
Blackbox claim about 500 registered forum users (obviously increasing over time). For such a small forum there is a lot of frustration and annoyance expressed, all of which gets in the way of solving the problem. Understandably in a Technical Support Forum, posters with a problem to solve provide most posts, so the forum cannot always be considered a happy place. It is worth putting some consideration into how to get the best results from this forum.
Be nice on the forum.
Despite any provocation, either of kit you think has gone faulty after a short time, or perceived in written responses, be nice.
This is a Blackbox run forum, and you want them to want to help you. There is no benefit to you in making smart or aggressive comments at the expense of the Support staff.
Post the right question.
Is your problem about managing your computer? Is it possibly about a bit of hardware you haven't bought from Blackbox?
Try to separate these from RCL or vehicle queries, and check or solve the computing problems elsewhere. If you have taken steps to confirm the computing bit is OK, say so, but DON'T finish by saying 'it must therefore be a Blackbox problem' as that's a conclusion, not a fact. Stick to facts, leave them to draw conclusions. By all means suggest your opinions as possibilities, but don't state them as facts.
Include enough facts.
If you post a one liner (Will new printer software conflict with RCL?) where there isn't enough information to base conclusions on, your post could be left at the bottom of the pile. If you can't be bothered, why should they?
Include detail.
If it's your first post, or first post for some time, include what level of Firmware and Software you have installed.
Remember, understanding those terms, their implication, and where to find the information, is expected to be part of your computer management skills.
Include as much detail as possible, you may not think it all relevant, but as you don't know the answer, you aren't the best person to judge.
Ignore provocation.
If support personnel respond with comments like "Can you honestly and sincerely say "... implying you are neither honest or sincere, just answer the factual element, ignore the personal.
Respond positively.
You may get responses from non Blackbox people, ie other owners. If they are asking for additional but relevant detail, give the detail. Blackbox may need it anyway. Blackbox could well have seen the supplementary questions from non Blackbox people and delayed their response, being unable to add anything meaningful until the questions are answered.
Be nice, even if you (wrongly!) read the implication that you are being ignorant or stupid.
Leave room for manoeuvre.
If someone jumps to a conclusion that you know to be wrong, ask yourself what information YOU are using to make that judgement. Did you include that information in your post? If not, write it now, or if you did write it before, repeat it, avoiding sarcasm (as in "if you had read my previous post properly ..."). Don't tell them they are WRONG, just say why your conclusion was different. They may know more than you, and with that extra knowledge, they may be right.
You may be told you are wrong, not 'possibly mistaken', but WRONG.
(Despite perceived provocation, be nice.)
Tone down your post.
You will see many threads starting with posts that are some or all of Aggressive, Demanding, Insulting.
Most people, and Blackbox support people are no exception, react badly to this approach.
They possibly don't take fully into account that, while it may be the first post to the Forum, it is the result of hours and hours of frustration with a piece of kit that won't do what the owner wants it to do, and they don't know why. The owner has sworn at the PC, at the VS, at his partner, the car, and the cat. As a matter of last resort he posts to the forum, and it's no surprise that despite his best efforts, some of that frustration at uncooperative machinery comes out in his post. BUT, it doesn't help YOU if the people you want help from are upset by your attitude.
Draft your post offline, say in your mail system.
Pause, think about it, have a brew, think what extra information you could add. Think how to move the words round to make your meaning clearer. Apply the 'be nice' injunction to your post. After you have calmed down, and made the changes, log into the forum and paste your prepared text into your posting. You don't have to do this for every post, at least, I hope not, but recognise when you are posting in frustration, or responding in anger, and take steps to avoid it showing in your post.
Yes, perhaps the other poster is ignorant of reasonable social conventions, and perhaps they are being arrogant or patronising or insulting. It doesn't help resolution of your problem if both of you act like that.
You want information from them, so be nice, get your information. If other users take offence or are insulting to you, just ignore that element of their post. Answer the factual questions, if you think it suits you, if not, just ignore the stupid prat :-)
Use the PM (Personal Message) facility.
If you are engaged in a discussion with someone being helpful, and somebody else butts in with annoying interjections, use the PM facility of the Forum to gain direct contact with the helpful person. You lose the facility of an open forum, the possibility of a useful comment from someone else, but you can always open the topic up again with a follow up post to the forum (start; "with assistance from xxx we have determined that ...", or "it now appears that ...").
Avoid Sexism.
If a female member of the Blackbox team answers your query, don't repost your question elsewhere, in a topic where a male Blackbox person is active. You will get a response, but it will tend to say 'she's dealing'. Female support people can also be technically astute and knowledgeable. They tend to be less aggressive, even when putting you in your place. As before, deal with the facts, ignore the personal aspect.
Remember, pick your supplying Dealer with care, and you can keep posting to the Forum to a minimum.
Don't ignore the Forum.
The forum has an individual section for each Hardware / Software element that you purchase, even down to separate sections for each lead. There are also a couple of sections under Miscellaneous, and several under Vehicle Explorer.
Set up the forum to advise you by email of new topics posted in the Miscellaneous and VE sections, and also each section relating to the hardware and software you have bought.
Usefully, this 'new topic' mail includes the text of the forum post, so you can judge just how interesting it might be.
Unless you then set up the forum to advise you of additional posts in that specific topic, you will get no advice of any responses.
However, being advised of a new topic is useful as a reminder, without overwhelming your Inbox.
Top of this section: #Support and Advice.
[edit] Protecting your Investment.
The original contribution was by Davidss, 21:26, 13 Nov 2006 (GMT).
[edit] General notes.
Possible connection options.
- 1. OBD lead + VCI + VS + Null Modem lead (+ optional Serial to USB lead).
- 2. OBD lead + Extension lead + VCI + VS + Null Modem lead (+ optional Serial to USB lead).
- 3. OBD lead + VCI + Extension lead + VS + Null Modem lead (+ optional Serial to USB lead).
None of the connection points are equipped with Jack Screws: there is no way of making sure the electrical connections are mechanically secure. Depending what cables you have bought, there is some flexibility in how all the elements connect together, as laid out above. During your initial experiences with the kit, consider how best to overcome the 'no screws' design feature, and create a reliable installation that also suits your style of use.
Note that PHYSICALLY it is possible to forget the VCI and plug the ODB2 cable directly into the VS.
DO NOT. Officially no harm will come if you do, but there is no benefit from making the mistake. If you think you might forget (and people have) you might consider it worth tying (string, shoe lace, plastic ties) the VCI to the OBD2 cable. This also overcomes one instance of the 'no screws' connection weakness.
Click the picture for a larger version.
Top of this section: #Protecting your Investment.
[edit] Plug Lead security.
The two main cables, (LD001) OBD2 Data Socket to VCI, and (LD011) VCI Extension lead, are thick and stiff, due to the thicker than normal wires used to minimise signal loss. The shells of the plugs don't securely grip these cables, with the result that the plug 'wobbles' about on the end of the lead. The weakest point is where the wire is soldered to the pin, and eventually one of these will break. To avoid this, devise some method of securely attaching the plug shell to the cable outer. Some people wrap PVC tape around the whole lot, Plug shell and cable, or just around the cable. Some cut cable sheathing off other cables, and use this to bulk out the existing cable, so closing the plug shell clamps both cable and the extra tape or sheathing. Some put lots of heat gun glue around the plug and cable, in the belief this isn't too difficult to remove. I'd stop short of using a solid setting potting compound!!
Do something, however unsightly you think it looks.
Top of this section: #Protecting your Investment.
[edit] Heat sinks.
The VS runs hot, Very Hot. The heat is generated in the base, and there are rubber feet to raise the VS off the floor and allow air to circulate. On anything other than a solid metal floor (or workbench) they are useless, as they sink into the carpet, or the recesses of a rubber mat, and no airflow takes place.
If nothing else, get yourself a sheet of metal, even a tea or beer tray, place this on the floor, and stand the VS on it. At least you will have maintained the space for air flow convection currents.
Better is to discard the sticky feet, and create an aluminium heat sink under the VS, 6mm or thicker for preference, 4mm may be OK. Create slight countersink depressions to accommodate the rivet heads, so the base of the VS can be in close contact with the aluminium. You don't need to remove the label off the bottom of the server. Make metal straps, with screws and spacers, to clamp the VS squarely onto the heat sink. As the VS is probably not perfectly flat you need four clamp points, one near each corner, to ensure even contact is made. Use spacers between the heat sink plate and the clamp plates to ensure the clamping pressure is just enough to enable even contact, but not so much it distorts the box and stresses the internal components.
In the UK, Maplins, an electronic hobby stockist, sell plastic spacers / mounting posts which can be easily cut to the appropriate lengths, and the 3mm machine threaded screws that fit them.
Plastic tie wraps will relax with age and heat, so loosening the tight fit you require. I don't think they are suitable for this application.
Ideally the heat sink should be painted matt black, you can also use some CPU heat sink compound between the VS and the heat sink, although mine works fine without. Don't skimp on the sheer mass of the heat sink, there is precious little airflow in the footwell of a car, so you are relying on the bulk of the sink to absorb the heat from the VS. If you come across a 'proper' finned heat sink of suitable size, perhaps from a surplus store, that is even better.
Peter Sanders created a heatsink and fan installation from surplus PC CPU components (and felt able to use plastic tie-wraps :-).
Peter writes: "The server does get VERY hot .... I have managed to strap a CPU fan, using a good coating of thermal paste, to the back of the unit. This fan keeps the unit VERY cool ... I have made up a cable to connect directly to the battery and power both the laptop and the RCL. There is also a small fly lead to power the cpu fan".
Top of this section: #Protecting your Investment.
[edit] Securing leads.
Positively securing the leads to the hardware, or one another, prevents accidental disconnection when the VS or VCI moves around during a road test.
Make the heat sink long enough to go under each of the plugs, or plugs and VCI if you prefer to plug the VCI directly into the VS. To maintain the alignment of the connectors when everything is secured in place, put packing pieces under the plugs or VCI as necessary, then clamp the VCI and leads to the heat sink. I prefer mechanical clamps, as for the VS, but you can use cable ties for these cable restraints if you prefer.
Top of this section: #Protecting your Investment.
[edit] Insurance.
Do ensure the RCL system is adequately insured, if you believe in insurance. You are free to gamble if you don't.
Be aware that the Modules you have bought are permanently associated with your specific Vehicle Server. When or if you lose the Server, the modules have gone as well, so everything has to be replaced. The total value of Server + Modules may easily exceed the maximum value of any single item, under the terms of your Car Insurance, or even your House Insurance.
You may be able to get round this restriction by itemising the Server + Modules as a single unit to your House Insurer, as you would any other single expensive item.
You might consider, that as you can buy each item separately, you can claim for them as separate items. By all means do so, but there might be an argument from your Insurance Company, who might see this approach as an attempt to circumvent their restrictions, which they put in place for their protection. After all, you don't claim for the total loss of your car by claiming for each wheel, plus Engine, plus Gearbox, etc, even though you can buy all the items as separate parts.
Clearly, this could depend on the view of the Insurance Company, and might hinge, from a legal viewpoint, on whether you bought the modules as separate items (like you have bought all your spanners, socket sets, etc), or whether you bought all the Hardware and Software together (like you bought the car).
Simpler, I think, to tell the Insurance company up front, as though it's a bit of kit like your garage air compressor, say, or a welder, and not save it up to add to your concerns at a stressful time (making the claim).
If the loss was total, as in the car being stolen, or the garage catching fire, there will be the costs of the VCI and cables to include in the total value of what the Insurance Company might see as a single item.
What happens if you lose the VS? It's stolen, or you drive over it, or spill a drink over it?
If it can be repaired, Blackbox will repair it, after you have sent it to Cyprus, but be realistic with your repair timescales.
Top of this section: #Protecting your Investment.
[edit] Living with your Rovacom.
The original contribution was by Davidss, 21:26, 13 Nov 2006 (GMT).
[edit] Bought it? Use it!
This tool you have bought is a bit more complex than that left handed fan coupling spanner you bought a month ago.
Build your knowledge and experience before the pressure is on to find and fix a fault.
Go through the modules, see what each module tells you, and what can be changed. Read the associated Help screens.
Learn when it is best to wait 15 seconds for the RCL to reset before you start a new module.
Figure out what works best for you in terms of recording changing values, like fuelling adaptations, say.
"What works best for you" means Excel Spreadsheet, or Text file, or Screen grab as jpg, or Hypercam sequence. See Capturing Data.
Build a base record of what the settings and values are 'now'. Right or wrong, you will have a starting point to compare any future values with. Have they changed? By how much? Does the Help give you a clue as to why they might have changed?
When you are doing this initial Data Sweep, because the pressure isn't on, if you get stuck, you can close down and walk away. Have a think, have a chat with your RCL Dealer, post on a Forum, the 'Owners Only' Blackbox one, or non-Blackbox one, or a Mailing List like the one at the Range Rover Knowledge Base.
Top of this section: #Living with your Rovacom.
[edit] What Rovacom does.
Broadly, this can be split into four.
1 It allows you to change settings that are designed to be changed.
- Do you want one-touch close, on which windows?
- When you lock the car, do you want Headlight flash, or Indicator flash?
Example This is straightforward, you take your pick, try it out, and see if it suits you.
2 It allows you to Read and Clear Fault Codes.
- Fuel value Invalid.
- O2 sensor values incorrect.
This is straightforward, as far as it goes. You get a clue as to what is wrong, and can clear the fault indicator or record.
3 It allows you to switch functions On or Off, so you can look and listen to judge if that function works.
- Wind a window up, does it groan while moving, or bang when it reaches the top?
- Open the suspension inlet valve, and one wheel valve, does that corner rise?
This relies on observation and analysis of the result of your instruction.
4 It allows you to see what is changing dynamically, especially while the car is moving.
- What is the boost pressure 'now'?
- Is the Suspension Compressor on?
This is of most interest, as what is happening over a time period may help you diagnose why that fault code has arrived.
Watching the screen while the car is stationary is no problem, but of limited effect, especially if you are researching anything to do with the engine, suspension, and automatic gearbox.
Watching the screen while driving is a strong predictor for an accident, especially if you are trying to watch two or more values at once, and fix their relationship (Boost pressure v Inlet Air temperature v Coolant temperature).
The answer is to record data, even if you, or your passenger are glancing or looking at the screen as the data is captured.
Having recorded the data you can go back and revisit what happened when, even revisit it several times, even stop and look closely at a certain time period, perhaps looking at some other value you hadn't thought of originally.
Top of this section: #Living with your Rovacom.
[edit] Capturing Rovacom Data.
Rovacom offers three alternative methods, and there is a fourth common method, viable across any Windows screen.
Save HTML. This is the default option if you are in a Read Faults screen, and click the Save Button on these screens. It can also be used on any other screen to record static settings, the current suspension settings, for instance.
This is OK, but there is no easy means of personalising the result to say what car you've recorded, or when. The resultant html file just re-presents the screen as it was at the time of capture.
However, it does have one benefit, in that when you revisit the saved page you can highlight any text you want, then Copy Paste it into an email, either to report to a Customer, seeking advice from someone else, or posting 'This is what you should get ... ' in response to someone else's query.
Screen Grab. This is the 'standard' method or capturing what is in the active window. Press Alt and Prt SC together, which will put the active window, as a picture, on the Clipboard. It is only a moment in time, and as it can take three to four seconds for an update to come through from the ECU, the result is far from an accurate and complete picture. This delay means that you might do the Screen Grab as soon as the engine hesitates, say, but the engine conditions that caused the hesitation may not have been captured.
You then open up another application and Paste the picture into a word document, say, where you can add any text as a reminder of what you were doing, what is significant about the screen, etc.
For this writer, this works better than save as HTML, but you cannot Copy text from the picture, you have to repeat it as newly written text. You can, of course use a picture editing application to crop the picture, or add text to it, but either variation is 'clumsy', takes up a lot of space, both on the screen and in terms of file size, and the information is not easy to review at a later date.
Record AVI. This is the method used by Blackbox to record their demonstration videos. I believe they use Hypercam. There are two difficulties here, the file size against the length of the recording, and seeing what changes when. To see what you get, look at "This video clip shows real data from the GEMS ECU while revving the engine. You can see the changes in the engine RPM and the related inputs, (throttle potentiometer voltage, airflow sensor voltage, idle air control valve position, etc)". This is 834kb for 1 min 15 seconds.
On initial viewing you will find it hard to follow the curser, but when the information window is shown, you will find it even more difficult to see what two or three values changed at the same time.
Capture Data. Although not emphasised in the title, this is Capturing Data as CSV (Comma Separated Values). Such a file will open readily in the common application for handling spreadsheets, Microsoft Excel, and I'm sure any application that does spreadsheets will also handle them, though you know your own PC programmes best.
For a file size of 9kb I captured nearly 7 minutes of Engine Fuelling data. The benefit here is that you can capture a 30 minute commute without filling your hard drive.
This output isn't perfect. To make it easier to read you will benefit from knowing, or learning, how to add Rows and Columns, change the size of Rows, Columns, and Fonts; Wrap text, and Format Numbers in Cells. Also how to create simple Formulas, and Graphs, if that suits what you want. Do not be put off by this. They are skills that once learnt can be used again and again.
The result is a clear sheet of numbers that easily indicates if two or more values have changed at the same time. In practice, the numbers create a pattern, and you can easily see pattern changes. You can also hide, without deleting it, data you don't want at the moment, so focussing on the important sections.
An small example of the basic CSV output is shown here. (Click for a larger version).
After modifying, the result is saved as an Excel (xls) file, not a CSV file, and this does increase the file size. In the example quoted above 9kb becomes 38kb for 7 minutes, which is still better than 834kb for 1.25 minutes. (Click for a larger version).
The file Composite Excel is an example of the extent to which the presentation of raw CSV data can be altered once it is into Excel format.
This is held in Zip format to speed downloading, but is still 458kb in size. The single Excel file within the ZIP used to contain Macros. They have been removed, but you may still get a Warning. If you do, click on 'Disable macros', you will not lose any functionality.
A single further example file, contributed by AlanDBristol, which shows Data Captured from a Petrol Engine. The first example is in basic CSV format, opened in a spreadsheet, which does not look too friendly at first glance.
The second example is taking advantage of the spreadsheet programme to improve the presentation. Note that no data has been changed, just it's readability.
(Click for larger versions).
The Excel version, if you want to see how it works, is here
Top of this section: #Living with your Rovacom.
[edit] A Permanent Rovacom in the car.
The initial contribution was by Davidss 16:36, 25 Oct 2006 (BST)
This is to bring to the surface a few aspects for those contemplating a 'fixed' installation of a Rovacom Lite in their car.
[edit] Insurance.
Not the most obvious, but it's worth a reminder that any modules you have bought are irretrievably linked to the Vehicle Server.
If the Server goes missing because the car is pinched, or taken by someone breaking into the car, or burnt to a lump because of a vehicle fire, then the replacement cost is that of the Server AND the cost of the modules loaded onto it. The cost of the VCI and any cables are minor compared to this, although you might be tempted to put them on the insurance claim as one item : Diagnostic equipment.
The total cost of the Server + Modules may well exceed the 'maximum single item' cost restriction placed in most policies by most Insurance companies.
It's been pointed out that in such cases, the expensive item is covered by any House Insurance you have, but again, the value of the Server + Modules may exceed the limit above which you need to declare the item by name.
You might 'get under' this limitation by classing each Module as a single item, and the Vehicle Server as a single item, this is how you buy them after all, but it would be wisest to present this conundrum to the insurance company before you make a claim.
Any alternative is a gamble, which you are allowed to make, after all, it's only money!
[edit] Power Consumption.
The unspoken assumption here is that a 'fixed' installation means you aren't intending to scrabble about in the footwell to make the connection to the Data Socket every time you want to use the system, and that you are building a PC into the car.
The VCI and VS settle down, after about 10 seconds, to draw just over half an amp. 530 mA was what I measured.
Disconnect the VS from the VCI, and the VCI consumption was measured as 40 mA.
Just connecting the VCI on its' own gave 20mA consumption.
Half an amp for a continuous three or four days, say a long weekend, will result in a severely discharged battery, and a push start (Ha :-))
Now you might be tempted to think that you simply interrupt the power feed in the cable from the Data Socket, and route it via a switch.
Not quite that simple.
If the ABS and Diesel engine ECUs see an unpowered VCI, you get the Beep, Beep, Beep, and ABS alarm from the Message Centre, and a slow flash on the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light). Neither faults create a record (as if you care, you can clear that) but it's off-putting all the same.
(You tell us about the Petrol ECUs, both Lucas Gems and Bosch Motronic).
So now you need power that comes on when the ignition is on, but off when the ignition is off. On it's own, that isn't the trickiest problem to overcome, but now is the time to consider exactly which components of this permanent installation you want live, and when. You may have a powered USB hub, a remote screen (with USB connection if it's a Touchscreen), a wireless or USB keyboard and mouse. You may have a wireless internet connection, or a Bluetooth link to a GPS receiver.
You also want the PC to start automatically when you switch on the car, but power down gracefully after you lock the car, but perhaps not immediately if you are in the (good) habit of locking the car while paying for fuel, for instance.
The detail of that little lot is worthy of other contributions, which are opportunities for another day, and possibly another hand.
Top of this section: #Living with your Rovacom.
[edit] Readers Files.
The original contribution was by Davidss, 11:28, 14 Nov 2006 (GMT)
This sub-section is created so that Rovacom Users who want to share their captured data, either for interest or to invite analysis, have a 'space' ready for them. It is also an oppertunity to set out advice for those not familiar with using this Wiki based platform.
[edit] Creating your contribution.
From recent experience, I will point out that it is much better to PREPARE, by collecting and arranging everything to hand BEFORE you start uploading to site. Stress levels tend to rise when you are part way through an upload, realise things aren't turning out the way you planned, and you are not sure how to get out of the hole!!
It's an obvious point, but you can have multiple examples of RangieWiki open at the same time, so that if you need to go and check something that's already on site, you don't 'loose your place', just go to the other Browser Window or Tab, do your research, then come back to the example that's in mid-edit.
[edit] Filenames.
I'll assume you have a file somewhere on your PC. Check the name. Wiki doesn't allow spaces in file names, so a file called My Misfire.jpg will get changed on upload to My_Misfire.jpg Similarly Miss+Stutter.jpg will get changed to Miss-Stutter.jpg
It is not essential that you get it 100% right, as a correction will be offered, and you are advised of the change so you can accept or reject it. It's just that preparation, and knowing what to expect, makes the process less fraught, so you might as well align your filename with the same file on RangieWiki.
[edit] Descriptive Text.
What are you going to say about the file contents? You have an opportunity to caption your image, this appears within the image, so limit yourself to less than 12 words. You can see some examples in the Heatsinks sub-section. Longer comments will appear as freehand text, above or below your image, just as you decide to lay them out.
Prepare your main text. Using a text file (Notepad) enables you to not only draft what you want to say, but also keep any additional information or reminders to yourself. Give this text file the same Forename as your Image file, and you can keep them alongside one another on your PC. The file extension will be TXT instead of JPG, of course. Note that you will not be uploading this Text file, it's simply a place for you to refine and keep what you want to write, then Copy & Paste when the time comes.
[edit] Uploading - Files.
If you haven't already, you need to Create an Account, so Andy knows who you are.
Clearly, if you already have an account, you have to Login.
When logged in, you will see, in the LH Menubar, that the Toolbox has extended to include an Upload File section. Also note the Special Pages section in the same Toolbox. Following this enables you, via a subsequent menu, to check image filenames (useful if you forget yours), and view images already uploaded.
Having clicked on Upload File, please read those words. These words are additional to those, some extra hand-holding if you like. Then complete your file upload.
Now go back to your prepared text and insert the instructions to call on the file.
Let's cheat and use one I prepared earlier.
This image, from the 'Protecting your Investment, General Notes' sub-Section
Click the picture for a larger version.
Click the picture for a larger version.)).
I have made the link invalid by using Curved brackets (( instead of double Square brackets [[.
Paste all the above, including both sets of Curved Brackets, into your text.
Change the Curved brackets to Square brackets [[.
Change the file name 'Jack_Posts-Screws.jpg' to your UPLOADED file name.
The word 'none' means the picture will appear on the left of the screen.
The word 'thumb' means you will get a thumbnail, with a larger file behind it. Use thumbnails, it makes for faster page loading.
The word '300px' sets the size of the thumbnail, if you want it to be page width, so people can just read the text on a JPG of a spreadsheet, change this to 600px.
'Typical Jack Posts and Screws' is the 'in picture' caption. Overwrite with what suits your file (say, 12 words maximum).
The code BR in angle brackets forces a line break, inserted to put the instruction 'Click the picture for a larger version.' on a new line. Inserting that line is optional, if you think it too obvious for words, leave both the BR and the words out.
[edit] Uploading - Your sub-Section.
From the Table of Contents at the top of the Rovacom Section, select the appropriate heading. Click on the Edit link on the right of the screen. In the editing window, underneath everyone else's contributions add a carriage return (or at the top, if you are first) then type 3 equals signs (=) followed by 3 tildes (~) followed by another 3 equals signs. No spaces are required between the = and the ~, but putting them in makes it easier to read.
This will create a sub-sub-section identified by your user name. Scroll down and click the Show Preview button, and if it looks alright to you, scroll down and click the Save Page button.
Congratulations, you have just completed your first edit!!!
Next click on the sub ... section you have just created, and again hit the edit link.
Now copy the text from your text file, and paste it into your section. Show Preview again, and if for some reason you think it would read more easily if the words were changed, or if a couple of line breaks were inserted, scroll down to the Editing window and make those changes. Show Preview again to judge the results. Keep going round this loop until you are happy, then click Save Page.
If you get really 'lost' for some reason, just scroll down and select 'Cancel'. Because you prepared beforehand, you still have all the original information, you haven't lost anything.
[edit] BECM
[edit] EAS
[edit] HEVAC
[edit] Bosch Diesel.
[edit] Lucas GEMS.
[edit] Bosch Motronic.
[edit] ABS.
[edit] Auto Gearbox.
[edit] Cruise Control.
[edit] SRS
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- This page was last modified 13:05, 22 January 2009.
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