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The Electronic Air Suspension System (EAS) fitted to the P38A is the second generation of the system originally developed by Land Rover and Dunlop to fit to the later models of the Classic Range Rover.

While some of the components have moved, the system is fundamentally the same as fitted to the earlier vehicle.

Expensive complexity or the best thing since sliced bread? You can't deny that this is a subject which brings up strong opinions throughout the Range Rover owning world. Many of the problems stem from early ECUs not working quite right, or difficult diagnosis of problems with the EAS.

Contents 1 Introduction 2 System Components 3 How it works 3.1 System Operation 3.1.1 Height Change Inhibit 3.1.2 System Wakeup 3.1.3 Ignition On 3.1.4 Footbrake and Gears 3.1.5 Compressor 3.1.6 Automatic Height Changes 3.1.7 Height Sensors 3.2 Fault Messages 3.3 System Diagnosis 3.4 Other diagnostic tips: 3.5 Height Measurements 4 The ECU 4.1 Pinouts and Schematic Diagram 5 Troubleshooting Hints and Tips 6 Known Faults and Fixes 6.1 Valve Block Repair 6.2 Air Spring Repair 6.3 Winter Problems 7 Other Information

[edit] Introduction

This web page provides information o­n the system as fitted to both the Classic and P38A Range Rover in the hope that it will help you fix problems with the system yourself. The biggest differences between the two systems are the location of components and the fact that the earlier software in the Classic ECU is more prone to logging suprious faults for spurious mis-reading of a sensor. The 38A will happily keep going in the event of minor errors.

Anyone lucky enough to own a L322 will find some significant changes. Pressures in the system are higher, and height changes can o­nly be performed when the vehicle is moving. This is a direct result of the independent suspension where the wheels get (slightly) closer together as the vehicle lifts. I'm told that when forced to lift when stationary (by testbook), there are some interesting noises generated by the tires sliding sideways o­n the floor! I understand that the current Mercedes S class cars have air suspension, and that other vehicles might also introduce it soon.

[edit] System Components

The system consists of the following components:

• Situated under the bonnet of the 38A, or under the right hand sills o­n the Classic, the compressor is fundamental to the operation of the system. It is a high compression unit complete with thermal overload protection.
• Seven electrically operated valves control flow of air from the compressor through the system to the reservoir, air springs, and exhaust. Also attached to the valve block is the exhaust valve, and a pressure switch o­n some vehicles - o­n others this can be found o­n the air reservoir.
• Replacing conventional coil springs at each corner, the air springs are filled with compressed air to raise the vehicle.
• Height Sensors, one per wheel, which allow the ECU to tell how high a particular corner is.
• Control switches, to select the operating mode. These work slightly differently o­n the P38A as to the Classic.
• ECU located under the drivers (UK) seat o­n Classic, or passenger seat o­n P38A.
• Inhibit Switch, o­nly found o­n the classic and P38A

[edit] How it works

http:/images/eas1.gif

Air enters the system via the Inlet Filter 1. All air entering and leaving the system passes through the dryer.

The diaphragm valve is controlled directly by the compressor relay. It has no direct ECU control and also isn't wired via the black box on the side of the valve block which does the "hit and hold" PWM control of the other solenoids.

The inlet air flow is through 1, 2, 3 and 5a into the reservoir. The diaphragm valve (7) is open, allowing air to close the diaphragm itself (8). When exhausting, the diaphragm valve is closed, so the exhausting air flows back through the dryer, through the diaphragm (8) and to the exhaust.

[edit] System Operation

[edit] Height Change Inhibit

Height changes are inhibited when:

• A door is open and speed is less than 35mph.
• The tailgate is open and speed is less than 35mph (P38A).
• The inhibit switch is selected (Classic).

[edit] System Wakeup

The system is activated when doors are opened and stays awake until 20 seconds after all doors are closed. When the doors are closed, if any height sensor differs from the target value by more than two the system will self-level.

[edit] Ignition On

When the ignition is switched to 2 the ECU is woken up again and may self level at this point. P38As will illuminate all lights to indicate power but no ECU activity. The system becomes fully active when the engine is started and the ECU sees an engine RPM signal over 500rpm. The system will then close the compressor relay and pressurise the reservoir if needed. This will not happen if the pressure switch is open, the thermal switch is closed, or the system is trying to exhaust air due to self-levelling.

[edit] Footbrake and Gears

The footbrake will stop any height change operation for 1 minute (Classic) or three minutes (P38A), as long as the vehicle is travelling at less than 1mph or more than 5mph.

When the system moved out of Park it will request a move from access if this is currently selected. Once the vehicle speed exceeds 1mph the compressor will be stopped for 3 second, and both front valves will open for the same time to level the front of the car. This repeats each time the vehicle speed drops to zero.

[edit] Compressor

The compressor will operate if the pressure switch is open and the thermal switch is closed. If the thermal switch closes, the compressor will be shut off for three minutes after which time the system will check the switch again. If the switch is now open, compressor operation will resume otherwise another three minute wait will be enforced. This avoid short-term cycling of the compressor when overheating.

Thomas Pumps manufactured the pump and some of their other pumps will also work with small modifications.

Also there's information available o­n York A/C compressors for o­nboard air which can also provide pressure to the EAS. Sun Performance, and Four Wheeler also have suggestions for vehicle mounted air comprssor systems.

[edit] Automatic Height Changes

The system will default to extended ride height if the sysyem is unable to lower a sensor reading for any 10 second period. This indicates that the vehicle is grounded. This is indicated by the "high" position lamp flashing. This mode will remain active for 10 minutes, the driver selects another ride height, or the vehicle speed exceeds 35mph.

[edit] Height Sensors

The 4 height sensors under the vehicle are fed a +5V regulated signal and the return voltage varies from around 0.5V to 4.5V under normal conditions. These values are converted into a 0-255 value for use internally. These numbers don't mean anything beyond increasing as the vehicle is higher - the range is just easy for a computer to store.

[edit] Fault Messages

The system can generate the following fault messages. Those marked "No alternatives" are those where there is no other condition which can cause this fault. If you know different, please let me know. Should be open to closed at 10 Bar, and closed to open at 8.5 bar. Should be max 8 minutes to fill from empty. Set when air usage does not correspond to implied air pressure, though system does not know exact air pressure. The pressure switch input is fed back to the ECU which actually controlles the compressor relay.

Message Note

Message	Meaning	Notes
Front Left Sensor Above Limit	No Alternatives. Sensor value over 225.	Could be caused by jacking body or extreme axle articulation
Front Right Sensor Above Limit	No Alternatives. Sensor value over 225.	Could be caused by jacking body or extreme axle articulation.
Rear Left Sensor Above Limit	No Alternatives. Sensor value over 225.	Could be caused by jacking body or extreme axle articulation.
Rear Right Sensor Above Limit	No Alternatives. Sensor value over 225.	Could be caused by jacking body or extreme axle articulation.
Front Left Sensor Below Limit	No Alternatives. Sensor value under 40.	Could be caused by jacking body or extreme axle articulation.
Front Right Sensor Below Limit	No Alternatives. Sensor value under 40.	Could be caused by jacking body or extreme axle articulation.
Rear Left Sensor Below Limit	No Alternatives. Sensor value under 40.	Could be caused by jacking body or extreme axle articulation.
Rear Right Sensor Below Limit	No Alternatives. Sensor value under 40.	Could be caused by jacking body or extreme axle articulation.
Engine Speed	Speed information invalid. Check Engine ECU for same fault.	Set when engine speed exceeds 8,000 rpm.
Vehicle Speed	Speed information invalid. Check ABS or Engine ECU for same fault.	Set when speed exceeds 160mph.
Pressure Switch Stuck On		My be confused with inlet valve stuck closed or rear valve stuck closed.
Pressure Switch Stuck Off		Compressor Failure? Air Supply leak?
Compressor Failure	Could be any of compressor failure, inlet valve stuck closed, exhaust valve stuck open or air supply leak.	Set when unable to bring more than 1 sensor to right value and pressure switch remained off. Use rovacom to check compressor operation.
Cannot lower front left	Set when sensor cannot reach it's desired value.	Use Testbook Valve Cycling menu or Rovacom Valve controls to open corner valve + exhaust valve to see if it will move.
Cannot lower front right	Set when sensor cannot reach it's desired value.	Use Testbook Valve Cycling menu or Rovacom Valve controls to open corner valve + exhaust valve to see if it will move.
Cannot lower rear left	Set when sensor cannot reach it's desired value.	Use Testbook Valve Cycling menu or Rovacom Valve controls to open corner valve + exhaust valve to see if it will move.
Cannot lower rear right	Set when sensor cannot reach it's desired value.	Use Testbook Valve Cycling menu or Rovacom Valve controls to open corner valve + exhaust valve to see if it will move.
Front left valve stuck Open>	No Alternatives. Set when sensor cannot reach it's desired value.	Use Testbook Valve Cycling menu or Rovacom Valve controls to open corner valve + exhaust valve to see if it will move.
Front Right valve stuck open	No Alternatives. Set when sensor cannot reach it's desired value.	Use Testbook Valve Cycling menu or Rovacom Valve controls to open corner valve + exhaust valve to see if it will move.
Rear left valve stuck Open>	No Alternatives.Set when sensor cannot reach it's desired value.	Use Testbook Valve Cycling menu or Rovacom Valve controls to open corner valve + exhaust valve to see if it will move.
Rear Right valve stuck open	No Alternatives. Set when sensor cannot reach it's desired value.	Use Testbook Valve Cycling menu or Rovacom Valve controls to open corner valve + exhaust valve to see if it will move.
Front Left Valve stuck closed	Set when sensor cannot reach it's desired value.	Use Testbook Valve Cycling menu or Rovacom Valve controls to open corner valve + exhaust valve to see if it will move.
Front Right Valve Stuck Closed	Set when sensor cannot reach it's desired value.	Use Testbook Valve Cycling menu or Rovacom Valve controls to open corner valve + exhaust valve to see if it will move.
Rear Left Valve stuck closed	Set when sensor cannot reach it's desired value.	Use Testbook Valve Cycling menu or Rovacom Valve controls to open corner valve + exhaust valve to see if it will move.
Rear Right Valve Stuck Closed	Set when sensor cannot reach it's desired value.	Use Testbook Valve Cycling menu or Rovacom Valve controls to open corner valve + exhaust valve to see if it will move.
Air Supply Leak	Could also be any of compressor failure, inlet valve stuck closed, exhaust valve stuck open or air supply leak.	Set when unable to bring more than 1 sensor to right value and pressure switch remained off.
Inlet Valve stuck open	No Alternatives.	Set when system is unable to make more than one sensor meet it's target value.
Inlet Valve stuck closed	Could also be any of compressor failure, inlet valve stuck closed, exhaust valve stuck open or air supply leak.	Set when system is unable to make more than one sensor meet it's target value.
Exahust Valve stuck open	Could also be any of compressor failure, inlet valve stuck closed, exhaust valve stuck open or air supply leak.	Set when system is unable to make more than one sensor meet it's target value.
Exahust Valve stuck closed	Could be Corner valve stuck closed. S	et when system is unable to make more than one sensor meet it's target value.

[edit] System Diagnosis

Symptom	Cause, Diagnosis and Solution
System will not intialise	Verify power to ECU, delay relay, fuses.
Compressor not running	Verify engine speed >500rpm, presure switch open, thermal switch off (closed, grounded), exhaust valve closed, no height changes taking place, relay closed, fuse MF2 intact. Also wait three minutes without touching anthing in case thermal switch is closed - remember you can see if the switch is closed, but not if it has been closed sometime in the last 3 minutes. Disconnecting compressor will have the same effect as the thermal switch being activated - 3 minutes with no operation.
Does not build pressure fast enough	Check pressure switch operating pressure. Leaks from exhaust port when compressor running may indicate diaphragm valve or solenoid faults.
Car leans to one side/corner	Check valve operation and that sensors can meet target value, by jacking car or manual valve control or necessary.
Compressor switches on and off frequently	Open door to ensure no height changes are being attempted. If compressor now runs to full and stays off, check sensors for stability of reading and gradual change throughout range.
Noisy Compressor	Check compressor mountings before condemming the compressor
Slow to lower	Check exhaust value for restirction and that inlet valve is operating correctly.

[edit] Other diagnostic tips:

• Use diagnostic tool to switch valves off and listen for actuation noise to verify proper operation.
• Do not apply +12V directly to solenoids to test as this will burn out the solenoid coil.
• The only thing you absolutely HAVE to have a diagnostic tool for is to recalibrate after replacing a height sensor and to reset fault codes. You can, eventually, work out everything else if you understand how the system is supposed to work.

[edit] Height Measurements

With testbook the calibration procedure for P38A requires blocks to sit under the bump stops to measure heights. For classic, or P38A with Rovacom you need a tape measure. In both cases the vehicle needs to be on a level surface. The height should be as follows:

Mode	Height	Offset from Standard
Access	730mm +- 7mm	-60mm
Low Profile	770mm +- 7mm	-20mm
Standard	790mm +- 7mm	0
High Profile	830mm +- 7mm	+40mm
Extended Profile	850mm -7mm/+17mm	+60-70mm

These heights are for P38A and measured to the center of the wheelarch with new tyres. The factory fit Pirelli Scorpion has 11mm of tread when new. You may like to correct for this by checking tyre tread.

Warning: if you're temtped to program the system to ride higher than normal, then you will affect the handling of the vehicle and probably invalidate your insurance.

[edit] The ECU

The ECU can be found under the left hand seat on the P38A.

[edit] Pinouts and Schematic Diagram

1	Slate/Green	Power from Delay Relay (+12V)
2	Orange/Slate	Rear Left Height Sensor Supply (+5V)
3	Orange/Blue	Front Left Height Sensor Supply (+5V)
4	Orange/Pink	Rear Left Height Sensor Feedback (+0.5 - +4.5V)
5	Orange/Green	Front Left Height Sensor Feedback (+0.5 - +4.5V)
6	N/C	Not used
7	Blue/Pink	Lamp Control and Message to BeCM
8	Green	Compressor Relay Driver (+12V To Enable Compressor)
9	Green/Slate	Exhaust Valve (+12V To Open Valve)
10	Green/Black	Front Left Air Spring Valve (+12V To Open Valve)
11	Green/White	Rear Left Air Spring Valve (+12V To Open Valve)
12	Slate	Engine Speed Input From BeCM C114
13	Slate/Blue	Air Pressure Switch Input (+12V When > 150psi, Otherwise 0V)
14	Black/Pink	Park/Hand Brake Input From BeCM C112 (Ground To Enable Access Mode)
15	Yellow/Slate	Inhibit Switch Input (0V When Pressed)
16	Black/Purple	Thermal Switch Monitor (Open Circuit/No Connection On Overheat, Otherwise 0V)
17	White/Pink	Diagnostic Socket Serial Receive
18	Black	Ground E154 (0V)
19	N/C	Not Used
20	Orange/Red	Rear Right Height Sensor Supply (+5V)
21	Orange/Pink	Front Right Height Sensor Supply (+5V)
22	Orange/Brown	Rear Right Height Sensor Feedback (+0.5 - +4.5V)
23	Orange/Yellow	Front Right Height Sensor Feedback (+0.5 - +4.5V)
24	Black/Pink	Height Sensor Ground (0V)
25	Blue/White	Lamp Control and Message to BeCM
26	Green/Orange	Inlet Valve (+12V To Open Valve)
27	Green/Pink	Front Right Air Spring Valve (+12V To Open Valve)
28	Green/Yellow	Rear Right Air Spring Valve (+12V To Open Valve)
29	N/C	Not used
30	Yellow	Road Speed Input From BeCM C112 (+12V Square Wave)
31	Green/Purple	Brake Switch (+12v With Brakes Applied)
32	Yellow/Orange	Dashboard Up Switch (Ground When Pressed)
33	Yellow/Brown	Dashboard Down Switch (Ground When Pressed)
34	Purple/Slate	Door Input From BeCM C112 (Ground When Door Opened)
35	White/L. Green	Diagnostic Socket Serial Transmit

The diagram contributed by Dominique Couthier might be easier to follow:

[edit] Troubleshooting Hints and Tips

• The ECU will lock up if more than a certain number of fault codes are generated and drop the vehicle to the bump stops. If this happens, and you are on a good smooth highway, you can often go faster than the 35MPH in the manual if your bumps stops are in good condition.
• The ECU is calibrated to the height sensors. If any height sensor is changed, or the ECU is changed to another vehicle, then you are looking at a trip to the dealer for recalibration. But you can do what you like to the pneumatic system as long as you don't introduce leaks.
• To remove an air hose, press the collet around the hose down. This may need a fair pressure.
• To replace the hose, insert it into the collet until you feel it push past BOTH sealing o-rings at the base of the collet.
• It's normal for the vehicle to sink slightly when cold.
• When raising the vehicle from, say, access to standard height, the back lifts 70% of the way, then the front 70%, then the back 30%, then the front the final 30%. This stops the headlamps shining up at oncoming vehicles, and also prevents air flow between the front and back springs.
• Even you steal the ECU, or more likely, power fails to the ECU, the warning light will come on. The ECU will send a +12 to a relay to turn the light OFF when it's happy.
• The EAS cannot exhaust when the compressor is running.
• Each valve is controlled by a driver unit bolted to the valve block. This operates a "hit and hold" to provide signal to the valve solenoid.
• Noise when the compressor is operating is more likely to be the mounting than the compressor itself.
• For classics, on power up the ECU, once it's happy, applies voltage to the Fault light relay to turn the fault light off. The electrics are more complex on the 38A since the EAS ECU relies on the BeCM to display fault messages on the message centre (in other words the LED display on the dash).
• Essentially, the system can do one of 4 things. Run the compressor to fill the air reservoir; exhaust air from the system; raise an corner; lower a corner. There should be air either entering or leaving the system, but not both. If more than one corner needs to be raised or lowered, a maximum of 2 are moved at one time, and these will be on the same axle.
• If the compressor is running and air is leaving the exhaust valve, the diaphragm valve has failed. An LR dealer will probably tell you that you need a new valve block. Don't believe them. See the information below on taking the valve block apart.
• If there is no activity from the system at all, and the warning light is on, check power and earth to the ECU before panicking.
• You can (partly) depressurize the system without testbook. Lower the system to access to minimise the air pressure in the springs. Then, disable the system by hitting the inhibit switch or leaving the tailgate open. Slowly loosen the nut on the drain valve on the air suspension and let the air bleed off. You will still have air pressure in the springs at this stage.
• If the system is left for some time, and then takes a long time to come back up to pressure, this could be a leak in the reservoir.
• If the air compressor overheats, at 127 degrees Celsius, then it will shut down for 3 minutes. Note that if you disconnect the compressor, this will be interpreted as an overheat by the ECU and the 3 minute cut-out will begin.
• Failing to service the intake filter can result in dirt ingress in to the system and overload the compressor. The valves rely on dry o-rings for sealing, and tiny specks of dirt can cause havoc.
• The computer diagnostics reported to the dealer can be misleading. Not all dealers can interpret the codes and diagnostic information correctly. This is made worse by the fact that there are very few sensors in the system - the pressure sensor and the height sensors are about all. So the system might log a valve fault when a corner fails to rise or fall as required, when it could in fact be a leak or kink in the air harness.
• Repair kit STC 8580 can be used to fix leaks in the 6mm nylon piping to the springs.
• Depending on the revision of your car, part numbers for height sensors can vary. Some differences are obvious physical differences, others are electrical and if you get second hand sensors, it may require rewiring to make seemingly identical connectors work.

There are three pins to each height sensor. +5V, 0V reference, and a slider position, which will be somewhere between the two. This should normally read between approximately 1 and 2.5V, with higher voltages being shown as the vehicle is higher off the ground. Wiring varies, so check the ETM for your model year.

• Compressor Test. Evacuate the system and attach a pressure valve. With a door open and the engine running, time how long it takes for the compressor to stop running. The pump should stop at 10 bar (150 psi) in 6 minutes. If it stops earlier wait 3 minutes to see if it starts due to a thermal overload.
• Test height sensors by back-probing the ECU connectors and slowly jacking the appropriate corner. If you see spikes or discontinuity, recheck at the connector to determine loom or sensor fault.

[edit] Known Faults and Fixes

Some of these are based on known problems from various sources, others are based on one off reports. If you have a symptom/cause/cure case from your vehicle, please let me know.

Items marked (C) are classic specific, items marked (P) are P38A specific. In the Cause column, this means that cause is specific to the vehicle, In the Cure column, this usually refers to model specific information. So "Fuse - F44 (P)" means that this fuse is F44 on the P38A but I don't know what it is on the classic.

System does not operate Blown Fuse(s) Check EAS Fuse - F44 (P), F17 for dash control (P). Faulty Height Control Switch Without testbook, diagnose with reference to ETM wiring diagram by shorting switch contacts. Delay Relay Failed Off Renew relay AMR3284 (P). Can be best tested by swapping relay with another vehicle. Loss of air pressure If compressor running, this is a big air leak, or see below for compressor not running. System appears to operate but compressor does not run Blown Compressor Fuse Check Compressor Maxi Fuse Compressor Relay Failed Check/renew relay RL20 (P) Compressor Temperature Cut-Out Failure Check cut-out circuit (see ETM). If you disconnect the compressor with the system powered, it will interpret this as an overheat and stop the compressor for three minutes. Vehicle does not level or remains in Access until over 35mph. Inhibit Switch on (C) Switch Inhibit Faulty Height Control Switch and access mode last selected when vehicle running Door switch not closing Compressor runs continuously Pressure switch failed Replace pressure switch Compressor relay failed closed Replace RL20(P) System continuously self levels and drains battery when off Delay Relay Failed on Renew relay AMR3284 (P). Can be best tested by swapping relay with another vehicle. Vehicle Leaning side to side, front to back Faulty Height Sensor or incorrect calibration Needs TestBook to recalibrate.

---

Diesel Evans had a problem where the compressor was running too much. It turned out that the pressure switch was closing and opening at the same pressure, so as soon as any air was used from the reservoir, the compressor would start up again.

It was quite obvious from the fact that every time you raised the vehicle, the pump started, plus running intermittently when levelling. It can also be confirmed by checking the voltage(s) across the pressure switch - ECU pin 13 Grey/Blue wire should be +12 when the switch is closed.

---

This comes from Terry Mansbridge, and shows that sometimes it's not the most expensive thing that caused the problem after all:

Terry opened the EAS box with the engine running to see if the compressor was running, it was not going and was cold, so he rocked relay 20 and the compressor started up.

After replacing the relay, the height was correct on the way home but it still took a long time. A little while later he restarted and again had to move the new relay to get the compressor started again it was not a relay fault, so he then took the fuse box out and pressed the plugs in tight from the underside and also fitted a new air filter.

So the primary fault was a dodgy connection in the fuse box and possibly a partly clogged air filter. Could have been fixed for free, but checking the relay was a good move as well.

[edit] Valve Block Repair

So what did you do on Boxing Day this year? Well, I repaired an air leak in the valve block. I'd had a problem for a while where the EAS would deflate overnight: it would drop to the bump stops AND the reservoir was empty.

So how did I find and fix it?

Step 1: Isolate the problem. I left the vehicle overnight with the EAS timer relay (under the left hand seat) disconnected, to stop it self-levelling overnight. The next morning, there was a tiny lean to the rear right, but otherwise all was normal. I jumped it, lowered it to motorway level, and then tried to lift it again. Took ages - no air in the reservoir.

So, I knew I had a tiny air leak in the rear right air spring, but not enough to cause the problem. But the air leak in the storage side meant that when it tried to self level, it just dropped, and took ages to rise the next morning.

Step 2: Trace the leak. I checked the drain plug and connector to the air reservoir, and then went to look at the valve block - I decided that if the air line itself was the culprit, I'd trace it last, since it was the hardest.

With the system fully pressurised, I sprayed the valve block with soapy water, paying particular attention to the area around the inlet valve which is a know leak source. Nothing. Then I noticed a mass of bubbles forming on the valve block on the compressor side of the block, just in front of this valve.

Air was escaping from the mating face between the two parts of the valve block. This is where the non return valves are fitted.

Step 3: Fix it. After removing the valve block, I undid the three screws holding the fitting in place, and found that the 4 o-rings that seal the air passages were all flattened and brittle - two of them came out only after LOTS of careful picking and in lots of tiny pieces.

During this process I kept the non-return valves in place to avoid getting bits of o-ring into the block.

Fit new o-rings, reassemble, and check for leaks - problem solved.

[edit] Air Spring Repair

Joe Godfrey reports some success using liquid latex to repair air springs. He says: What ever you do don't use Tyreweld on your air springs, use a high modulus latex liquid with bonding properties or a flexible non hardening sealing solution (like the one for rubber window seals) and put enough in to just do the job.

Tyreweld may stay 'bubbly' in the spring if injected directly in, and go back up the pipes to the valve block if on lowering the air spring. squirting it into a cup and then syringing it into the spring would probably work as the bubbles die out quite quickly leaving the correct consistency, however exclude the air or it will go off before you can 'administer' the dose. I have been told by a friend in NZ that using a small paint brush to apply it to truck air spring joints fixes microscopic leaks and is very easy to remove when needed.

I am more of a mind to get a 'horse syringe' and shoot some mountain bike tyre go into the bottom of mine and see what happens to mine as one has the slowest of leaks when the car and air temperature falls below freezing (rubber contracting), and it is not the top connection, as I have replaced the o rings and replaced the tube, and freeze tested the top with a can of pipe freezer, testing the bottom is nigh on impossible.

See also this Update from Joe.

[edit] Winter Problems

My EAS freezes up after sitting overnight below 32F My Electronic Air Suspension freezes up after sitting overnight in cold weather. When starting the car the compressor pumps, but shuts down after three minutes. I have had to limp home several times because of this problem. I am told that it's a problem with '96 Range Rovers. What can be done?

Answer Response: I suspect... that the air dryer may need replacement. It is supposed to remove moisture in the compressed air system to prevent freezing temps from doing what you are encountering. It is located outside the EAS pump box and looks like a wee air reservoir. These are hand formed in Tuscan caverns by apple cheeked virgins who eat only macrobiotic foods. The dryers are flown in First Class seating specially packed in silk wrappings to the Solihull factory where they are carefully unwrapped, transferred to official Land Rover parts boxes, taken by chauffer driven Rolls Royce limo to the parts distribution warehouse and stored in climate controlled rooms with surround sound stereo playing soothing classical favourites, which is why they cost 80 bucks.

[edit] Other Information

John Brabyn also has some information on EAS on his site, including how to make an Extended Profile Selector.

Over the winter since I first wrote his, a number of people living in cold climates (like -30 or colder overnight) have reported problems with EAS faults in the morning. This may be due to residual water freezing in the pipes (dry system and replace dryer) or could be indicative of the air springs becoming too brittle at really low temperatures.

NEW: Arnott Industries based in Orlando, Florida, USA supply after market air springs at cheaper than LR prices.

One more thing: if you don't have Rovacom or similar to depressurise the EAS, drop the system into access mode (on the bump stops). Otherwise stand well away from the wheel arches, as the body will drop like letting down a trolley jack, make sure the ignition is off, or the car will register a fault, and an axle stand will hold the body up. Do not do it with the body jacked up unless the spring is re-inflated before the body is lowered to prevent 'pinching' the spring on loading. And make sure the dog isn't under the car as that corner will come down fast.

On the subject of diagnostic tools there are four ways to access the EAS diagnostic information and reset the ECU:

• The official Land Rover Testbook and/or Hand Held Tester. If you have one of these you probably have access to better information than I do.
• Rovacom or Rovacom Lite.
• Autologic
• The Lucas Hand Held Tester

Of these the Rovacom Lite is about the most flexible and affordable option, though I have heard of people finding the Lucas tester for around £250.

More information needed please - e-mail me if you can help.

• • New on 19/03/2006 EAS valve block seals and compressor rebuild for P38 **

For enthusiasts who are bold enough to replace all of their P38 valveblock seals , including the NRV seals. Please visit http://www.rover-renovations.com who are located in Omaha U.S.A. A complete kit of seals is $12 + postage and the transit time is 7 days. They also do a cylinder/piston/ptfe ring kit for $110 to refurbish the P38 EAS compressor. Good pictorial details and instructions on this web site. They do talk to you via e-mail and were very helpful to me. The down side is that you need an Rovacomlite or equivalent system to carry out various actions on your EAS, so as to avoid writing blank cheques to the repair centre. I am fortunate enough to own this equipment - The cost can be recovered very quickly . . .

• • • New on 19/04/2006 ***

P38 air compressor rebuilt with abovementioned kit in less than 45 minutes. The ptfe ring had nearly disintegrated but the compressor was still pumping ( for ages ).... The inside of the compressor was covered in fine dust as a result of the worn ptfe ring. This dust must be cleared out before re assembly. Good as new after refurbishment.

I have also replaced ptfe ring on compressor. Two suggestions with operation. 1. Use a ordinary table knife and work around metal ring to prevent burr formation on piston head. 2. Get a short piece of PVC pipe the same dia. of the metal ring and use it to drive the ring back on with the new ptfe seal in place. Make sure it seats well on the piston head.

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