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Contents |
One discussion topic which seems to come up over and over again is the importance of regular servicing. Usually this comes in the form of "I oÂnly do 5,000 miles a year, and my car specifies a 12,000 mile or 1 year service interval. Do I really need to change the oil every year and the brake fluid every two years?"
Well, yes. For much of the bits which need regular replacement (anti-freeze, brake fluid, engine oil to name a few), these items degrade over time even if the vehicle does 12 miles a year. Added to the fact that engine oil in particular gets contaminated quickly when doing lots of short journeys. Almost every car oÂn the road can still have these basic service tasks carried out at home if money is tight, and if you're not sure what you're doing, many local Adult Education Colleges run evening classes oÂn car maintenance. The cost of the course and a decent toolkit represents a significant investment, but will repay itself in a few services.
If the engine oil is black and runny, it's no longer protecting your engine properly. Don't compromise an engine which could cost thousands to replace to save a few quid oÂn a couple of litres of oil. If you do lots of short journeys, especially cold starts, then consider halving the specified interval in the book. This will prolong the life of your engine more than anything else you can do. But, oÂn the subject, if you want to look after your engine, don't thrash it when it's cold, don't labour it at all, and don't skimp oÂn oil changes.
Use 10-30 or 10-40. Some say to try to use Synthetic oil if possible; others just use the cheapo stuff and change it regularly.
Brake Fluid is hygroscopic. This means that it will absorb moisture, which in turn will lower it's boiling point. If the fluid boils, it's compressible, and if it's compressible, you have no brakes. Don't even consider leaving brake fluid in your car more than 2 years, and if you have a poorly sealing cap oÂn the reservoir, replace it today.
Even if your car never moves, water in contact with the iron in the engine will cause corrosion. Aluminium engines are not immune either. The corrosion inhibitors in anti-freeze decay over time, so make sure that you do flush and replace the fluid every two years. Many car service schedules do not include this as a specific service item, so make sure if you are not doing the servicing yourself that it does get done.
Diff oil will need changing as per the specified intervals, this is a simple job so no excuse to leave it.
Automatic gearbox fluid will require changing at specified intervals too, and its advisable to change the filter and O rings as well.
Power steering fluid should only need checking, if regular topping up is required, the system needs to checked for leaks.
First of all, run the air con at least oÂnce a month. In winter, it makes demisting the windows easier, because the air coming into the car is dryer. This causes refrigerant to circulate and keep the seals wet and prevents them drying out and deteriorating. Most systems will need recharging every several years, especially as they get older. This is a specialist job, but most areas have mobile air-con specialists who can come to you to do the work for a fairly modest sum. If you don't do this, you can end up paying ££££ for a new compressor! Some people advocate doing this regularly, but at a minimum, if you notice any deterioration in the air con performance, then get it checked
For vehicles prior to 1999MY, the basic service interval is 6,000 miles.
The following table summarises the actions at each service interval - you can print this and use it as a checklist if you like. This is based on the Land Rover official workshop manual. The intervals repeat every 24,000 miles, so at 96,000 miles you should be doing the same as the 24,000 mile service. There are a few exceptions at different ages.
I've deleted some stuff from this list that don't really count if done yourself - like the annual corrosion inspection. 2001 Most of the items that are just checking things are likely to be done more regularly by an enthusiastic owner. But it's still worth a regular check just check as well, just to be sure.
| Item | 6,000 | 12,000 | 24,000 |
| Check condition and security of seats and seat belts. | N/A | ||
| Check operation of all lamps, horns and warning indicators | |||
| Check operation of front/rear wipers and washers and condition of wiper blades | |||
| Check operation of handbrake | N/A | ||
| Replace alarm handset batteries | N/A | N/A | |
| VEHICLE EXTERIOR | |||
| Annual corrosion/cosmetic inspection - Only on vehicles sold after 21/11/98 | |||
| Depressurise air suspension and replace compressor intake and exhaust filters | N/A | N/A | |
| Remove/refit air reservoir drain plug (if evidence of water in system, replace dryer) | N/A | N/A | |
| Repressurise air suspension system | N/A | N/A | |
| Check/adjust headlamp alignment | N/A | ||
| Remove road wheels | N/A | ||
| Check tyre pressures, condition and tread depth (LHF RHF RHR LHR Spare) | |||
| Inspect brake pads for wear , calipers for leaks and discs for condition | N/A | ||
| Inspect road wheel speed sensor harness for damage | |||
| 48k Renew fuel filter element (V8) To VIN WA410481 | N/A | N/A | 48k |
| Renew fuel filter element Every 18,000 miles/18 months (Diesel) | |||
| Drain fuel sedimenter (Diesel only) | |||
| Refit road wheels to original hub position ( Use anti-seize compound on spigot bore ) | N/A | ||
| Visually check intercooler/radiator for external obstructions and fan blades for damage | N/A | ||
| Check operation and Lubricate door locks, hinges, door checks, bonnet catch |