P38A Exterior

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These are a few useful bits relating to the exterior of the P38A.

Contents

[edit] Air Intake Foam

Like several others I've seen, my new shape RR has been suffering from the foam insert in the heater air intake falling apart. This sites in the panel between the bonnet and the windscreen, and is an easy thing to change, but not all parts manuals may list the foam intake filter as a separate part.

Nice easy instructions for people like me who think the "2 spanner rating" jobs in LRO are a bit tricky!

[edit] Parts Needed

  1. BTR 9548 Filter - Plenum Air Intake Costs about £4
  2. BTR 9549 Clip - Foam Retention(Possibly)
  3. replacement clips for the windscreen lower finisher (Possibly)

[edit] Equipment Needed

  1. Straight and angle head No2 Screwdrivers. I used a 1/4" socket, hex bit adaptor, and a magnetic hex bit holder to get the right combination of lengths.
  2. 10mm socket
  3. Small flat screwdriver.
  4. Pliers

[edit] Steps

  1. Open the drivers door. Under the rubber strip where the door meets the A post there are 4 screws which hold the windscreen side finisher in place. Remove these and place the finisher out of the way. You'll probably need an angle head screwdriver to get the bottom o­ne easily.
  2. Lever out the covers over the nuts o­n the windscreen wipers, and remove the wipers.
  3. Slide the finishing strip at the bottom of the windscreen towards the drivers side of the car and remove. Don't worry about the clips at this stage, they're easier to recover later.
  4. The panel across the front is in three sections. The outside o­nes are heldvv in place with three screws, two at the top and o­ne at the bottom. The centre o­ne has 8 in total, 5 at the top and three at the bottom. You should be able to slide the passenger o­ne out from under the passenger side finisher, but you might want to remove that to make life easier. Take note of how they come apart as they interlock at the lower edge.
  5. Lift out all three panels.
  6. Using pliers, remove the clips from the top edge of the panels and slide them into the rail in the lower finisher.
  7. Remove the metal clips holding the foam into place. If you lever alternate sides of the clips with a small screwdriver they come out without breaking, unless yours are corroded into place.
  8. Fit the new foam under the wire support.
  9. Align the three panels (center o­ne first) making sure they interlock, and fit screws loosely until all panels are located.
  10. Tighten screws.
  11. Align clips in winscreen lower finisher and with holes in panel and screw into place. You can get away with missing a few in the centre.
  12. Replace the side finisher(s).

Update from Ron Beckett: I did mine today and found that several of the self-tapping (PK) screws (under the windscreen trim) holding the plastic plenum chamber cover o­n were badly corroded o­n the threads and, as a result, difficult to remove.

When I replaced the screws, I cleaned all of the good o­nes o­n a wire wheel o­n my bench grinder then smeared Vaseline o­n the threads of all the screws. This should minimise futrure rusting. I also put some copper grease o­n the windscreen wiper arm tapered splines to prevent any corrosion at this point.

Also I noted a fair bit of muck under the trip strip so I would recommend pulling it off every so often to clean the area. Ditto for the cover strip below the tailgate window.

[edit] Removing the Rear Bumper

From Ron Becket on the rro mailing list, with some clarifications from Kevin Kelly.

The rest of the discussion seems to indicate that the plastic bumper is warping in the hot Aussie sunshine. If it gets that hot, then the Jacaru Summer Breeze hat I'm getting for Christmas should be a most excellent pressie!

You don't have to remove the road wheels as suggested in the manual. But you will need to put the car on max height.

  • From under each quarter panel, reach up and unclip the springs which hold the sides of the bumper into a channel. The manual phrases this as "release 2 clips"
  • Undo the three screws holding mudflap onto the edge of the bumper side panel. (It may not be necessary to remove the bottom one as the screw tightens into the wheel arch liner panel. ) There may be a 4th screw on your car.
  • Remove

2001 

the almost invisible screw that is set back from the edge of the mudflap about half way up the arch of the flap. If you don't you will break the plastic clips that hold the liner to the bumper. I didn't remove the screws 'cos I didn't know they were there.
  • Undo two bolts from under the rear edge of the bumper - they are up inside holes in the bottom edge of the bumper. They may have covers over the bolt holes. Mine didn't. You may have to remove a trim panel from which goes from the rear edge of the bumper forward to the rear crossmember. (if yours has a towbar, this trim panel may have been cut into two pieces). The manual says there is a cover over these bolts, but we've never seen one. I guess they just fall off.
  • This trim panel was missing from mine because a PO had removed the towbar before selling the car - or it wasn't fitted to '95 MY
  • Undo the towing electrical socket.
  • Slide bumper rearward and off. Much easier with two people even though the bumper is quite light.
  • Before refitting, cut a couple of pieces of 1/4" steel and drill a couple of holes to clear the mounting bolts removed earlier. Glue these on top of the bumper mounts inside the bumper. This will give a little more clearance to avoid the warped bumper touching the bottom of the lower tailgate as the tailgate is opened.

[edit] Tailgate: Water Ingress

Tailgate Water Ingress

A common P38A problem is the appearance of water in the spare wheel well. This is usually down to water ingress at the tailgate, and the following information was posted to a mailing list based on a Land Rover Service memo.


AFFECTED RANGE: All vehicles

PROBLEM: WATER INGRESS AT TAILGATE - APERTURE SEAL Water collecting in spare wheel stowage area.

CAUSE: Either of the following: · Tailgate aperture flange irregularities · Tailgate aperture seal irregularities · Lower tailgate hinge bolt leakage · Upper tailgate alignment

ACTION: 1. Remove tailgate aperture seal and check flange for irregularities. Carefully straighten any flange area causing concern and evenly bend entire length of flange outwards towards tailgate by approximately 5 mm.

2. Obtain new tailgate seal ALR8547. Referring to the illustration on page 2, measure 520 mm outwards from the lower seal section centre line and mark seal at these points, measure another 5 mm on from these points and mark seal again. With a sharp knife carefully cut through the bubble section of seal at marked points so that a 'C' shaped section is removed to form drain slots, (see inset on illustration). NOTE: If modification is carried out correctly the drain slots will be hidden under the tread plate.

3. Fit seal to vehicle confirming that the seal is the correct way up with seal joint and drain slots at bottom of aperture. NOTE: To assist seal fitment and to ensure tightness of seal to flange, the seal should first be heated to approximately 40 0 C. This can be achieved by placing in an oven or a container of warm water.

4. Referring to the Workshop Manual, Section - Body Repairs - Tailgate Lower, remove lower tailgate hinge bolts one at a time and apply silicon sealant around the threads before re-fitting.

5. Close tailgates and apply water via a hose around aperture to confirm leaks have been eliminated. Take care not to direct hose into extraction vents during this test.

In the unlikely event that leaks are still apparent proceed with the following:

6. Check upper tailgate profile to 'E' posts. If gaps are uneven, re-align tailgate with lower tailgate in open position. To correct the gaps, hinge adjustment may be required, refer to Workshop Manual, Body - Repairs - Tailgate Upper.

7. Re-test with water hose to confirm cure.

PARTS INFORMATION: ALR 8547 - Tailgate aperture seal

WARRANTY CLAIMS: Use Complaint Code: 9J4N Use one or more of the following SROs: 76.31.89/34 Dress aperture flange, modify and fit new seal and apply sealant to hinge bolts Time allowance: 0.50 Hrs 76.28.31 Upper tailgate adjust Time allowance: 1.30 Hrs

[edit] Doors

[edit] Clunking noise as door opened or closed

This ususally happens to the drivers door, since it's the most used. It's caused by wear and tear on the check strap, which will need to be replaced. (Details required)

I did this job the other night. Remove the tweeter from the top of the door trim (it just pops off)

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