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= Description =

Contents 1 Anti-lock Braking System 2 Traction Control 3 Common Problems 3.1 Squealing Brakes

[edit] Anti-lock Braking System

Why change brake fluid?

[edit] Traction Control

2 Wheel Traction Control was fitted as an option up to 1997, and as standard in 1998. From 1999 a newer 4 wheel system was fitted.

Part numbers differ for the Booster, ECU, and differentials.

For the booster:

Part Number	From VIN	To Vin	Comments
STC2779			Current. No traction control
STC2778		WA410481	Current. Ends 1998MY ?Rear wheel Traction Control?
SXC10010	XA410482		Current. Start 1999MY ?4 Wheel Traction Control?

For the ECU:

Part Number	From VIN	To Vin	Comments
ANR1250		MA316175	Current
ANR4898	TA316176	WA410481	Current. Starts '96 MY Ends '98MY ?Rear wheel Traction Control?
SRD100290	XA410482	XA417534	Obsolete. Start 1999MY ?4 Wheel Traction Control?
SRD100500	XA317535		Obsolete. 4 Wheel Traction Control
SRD100501			Current. 4 Wheel Traction Control

[edit] Common Problems

[edit] Squealing Brakes

Aside from routine maintenance, there are two things things that tend to go wrong with brakes, at least at the business (wheel) end. The first is that they squeak, and the second, which can be related, is that they stick o­n.

For a simple squeak, try coating the BACK of the pads with copper grease. DO NOT, under any circumstances allow this to contact either the friction surface of the pads or the discs. If it gets o­n the pads, buy new pads. If it gets o­n the disc, you might be able to clean them with an alcohol-based solvent.

A good starting point is basic maintenance, but rarely performed by a garage. Basic level instructions here:

1. For front wheels you can improve access by turning the wheel you are going to work o­n to point inwards at the front.
2. Slacken the road wheel nuts. (27mm socket o­n a long breaker bar is the easiest way to do this)
3. Jack up the car (front or back) making sure the other end is chocked and the axle is supported by stands at both ends.
4. Remove the two nuts at the back of the calliper (12mm socket).
5. Lift out the carrier and remove the brake pads.
6. Clean any brake dust build up around the piston seals. If the seals are worn they will need to be replaced.
7. Taking care not to stretch the flexible brake host, gently push back the seals to see if there are any signs of corrosion o­n the piston. If there are, consider replacement.
8. Place the caplier somewhere out of the way (it will balance o­n the axle) - don't let it dangle from the brake pipe.
9. Remove the two 19mm 12 point nuts holding the carrier to the hub. This will take considerable force - be careful.
10. Remove the carrier and file away any build up of material where the pads sit against it.
11. Reassemble in reverse order, starting with fitting the carrier and tighten to 165Nm.
12. Replace the pads (new or original o­nes).
13. With a g-clamp and something to go arcross the front of the pistons, push them back into the caliper to aid reassembly.
14. Place the caliper back. Insert the bolts into the the guide pins and tighten nuts to 30Nm. LR specifies to use new nuts; my personal view is to replace them when replacing pads, but they are fine if just removed for inspection.
15. Refit the road wheels with the nuts just tight.
16. Lower the vehicle and torque the wheel nuts to 80Nm.
17. Reseat the pads by pressing the brake pedal several times until increased resistance is felt.
18. As soon as you move off, check the brakes are working. Check again that you can stop from speed in a straight line when you have an opportunity to do so.

If this does escalate into a caliper overhaul, then "Wod" in Denmark has some excellent instructions o­n the whole process. Based o­n the classic, but should apply to the newer model as well. (Link Needed)

Also, non-Land Rover brake pads often do not have the chamfer o­n the leading edge (lower edge when fitted in the caliper). You can file this o­n yourself - use a coarse file to keep the dust particles generated large and do not inhale the dust generated. The chamfer should be at 45 degrees as sho 2001 wn, and is surprisingly easy to make. Use a fairly coarse file and don't breathe the dust. This fixed my squealy brakes - will by genuine LR parts next time! Thanks again to Dave Sparkes for this tip and the photo.

http:/images/brakes.jpg

Squeaking, especially after braking, can also be caused by warped discs. These are more involved to replace.

Some further advice o­n what to do comes from Antti Ahonen in Finland. While aimed at the classic rangie, the advice applies pretty much to anything with disc brakes.

The reason has been always a sticking brake piston due to corrosion or dirt. If the brake disk is significantly below specified minimum thickness, the brake piston may stick due to reduced guiding in pot.

What I normally do to fix this is:

1. o­n road repair: press brake pad and pistons in and again out (with brake pedal) repeatedly to release pistons
2. Renew brake pistons (if any signs of corrosion or poor return to pot)
3. Renew seals and wiper rings for brake pistons.
4. Clean brake pad area in caliper to allow for free pad movement (I often clean and paint all the components that are loose)
5. New brake disc (if worn)
6. Bleed the system

I do not believe that any other components o­n the brake system can cause brake dragging. Changing of brake fluid every second year will reduce problems (water is entering into the fluid and may cause internal corrosion in any of the brake or clutch components).

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